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Old 08-01-2014, 02:00 AM   #31
740isport
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Odd question, are you sure your two smaller wires on the starter solenoid aren't reversed? It shouldn't crank this way, but I've seen stranger things happen.
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Old 08-01-2014, 02:08 AM   #32
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My unloader is in the DME compartment. I had a no start when I cut one of the unloader relay wires by accident, can't remember what wire color but as soon as I fixed the cut wire the car started up. I sure would like to see if the injectors are firing right. If we go by the assumption that fuel comes out the spark plug we really don't know if the system is working correctly. Rev limiter is controlled by dumping enough fuel to flood the engine at high RPM to keep the motor from over rev. If injector board is f'ed then you could have the injectors just dumping fuel when cranking over.

Still the above does nothing about the main issue which is no spark. You should be able to check the spark by connecting the 12 volt pin to 12 volts and then grounding the coil negative for which spark plug you want to fire. This will tell us if you really have 12 volts at the coil instead of a back feed making your meter show 12 volts with no amps behind it.

See if you can get the coils to fire with 12 volts hooked to positive pin. Then put a ground to negative you want to fire. When you remove the negative from the coil it should collapse the field and fire the spark plug...

My only guess right now but start with the coils and if they do fire correctly then we know it is a DME issue
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Old 08-10-2014, 05:40 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
See if you can get the coils to fire with 12 volts hooked to positive pin. Then put a ground to negative you want to fire. When you remove the negative from the coil it should collapse the field and fire the spark plug...
No luck, it didn't fire. Look for ads on my part out in the forum soon. These issues, along with newly found and substantial damage to the chassis, is making me think time to part it out.
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Old 09-11-2014, 07:06 PM   #34
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Just curiosity, could you ohms check the ground wire at the coil pack connector. I am not sure which pin, but I think pin #3, next to the pin (#2?) with 12vdc (clockwise) when you start the car.
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:57 PM   #35
xxxJohnBoyxxx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alika808 View Post
Just curiosity, could you ohms check the ground wire at the coil pack connector. I am not sure which pin, but I think pin #3, next to the pin (#2?) with 12vdc (clockwise) when you start the car.
You can check with a ohm meter with the process in the Bentley. Since your 12 volt from batter and signal ground test did not produce a spark you might try another coil that is know to be good. Also I think you already did a Crank and Cam sensor so I'm stumped.

Sorry this has been so hard to diagnose when it is such a easy system
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Old 10-24-2014, 04:08 PM   #36
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Hey guys I'm having a similar issue with my 98 ti. Get fuel but no spark. I tested the unloader relay, get 12.5v key on, goes down to about 11.5v when starting/cranking engine over, from my understanding of this post i ruled it out, but i switched it with another relay, and when redoing the test i got, 12v when key on and went down to 10 and 9.7 and dropping a little when starting, I am about to get a replacement coil to replace mine to see if there is any difference, and will get new relays, but I don't like the difference in the relay readings already. i thought it was my battery juice going down after each start attempt, but no, put charger on it and it wont even charge the battery says its full.

Last edited by performanceisland; 10-24-2014 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 10-24-2014, 05:58 PM   #37
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i am loosing voltage, battery is fully charged, all my connections are either new or cleaned, checked power with volt meter at battery, at cables, at junction block, the only place i am dropping voltage is at the #2 hole of the ignition coil voltage, and now the starter is getting weaker and weaker and lights are dimming, this is with a brand new battery, can the starter cause all this trouble?
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Old 10-25-2014, 11:01 PM   #38
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Well it wasn't any of the usual suspects, i have very low compression on all four cylinders, with oil put into the cylinder compression goes up significantly, so have to do rings, anyone know if the rings can be replaced on this engine with the block still in ?
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Old 10-26-2014, 12:40 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performanceisland View Post
Well it wasn't any of the usual suspects, i have very low compression on all four cylinders, with oil put into the cylinder compression goes up significantly, so have to do rings, anyone know if the rings can be replaced on this engine with the block still in ?
I would not try it. The cylinders should at least be honed so there is a fresh surface for the new rings to seat properly. Also torquing rod bolts correctly is a important part of the process which is hard to do correctly with the block still in the car. I would suggest take the extra time to remove the block and put it on a engine stand and do it right the first time by going through the complete motor. You might need crank and/or rod bearings which are very hard to do with the block still in the car.

Good luck, John S
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Old 10-26-2014, 04:45 PM   #40
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after further investigating i am going with blown head gasket diagnosis, after putting a bit of oil in the cylinders i get it to crank and actually fire, not start but was able to see exhaust smoke going out of radiator, i have almost no coolant due to a huge crack in radiator, the vehicle has history of oil changes, the oil in it looked good, inside of engine under cover is nice, no signs of sludge, timing chain is tight as can be, it has 140k miles on it, and the huge loss of coolant leads me to believe that it's the head gasket, it just is probably really blown good, and my guess is that the oil in the cylinders helped seal it to get it firing, there is signs of leak at head gasket on the lower right hand portion. or worst case i think cracked/warped head, so i think i am going to attempt the repair. the body of this ti is so nice id hate to sell it as is. After i have the head off i can check the pistons/rings for play, my experience from doing rings in other vehicles is that if it's the rings, ill be able to move the piston slightly of axis by hand, at least with the kind of compression loss i have, i think it's a good educated guess. What you think john?

Last edited by performanceisland; 10-26-2014 at 04:49 PM.
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