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Cooling System Overhaul 1996 318ti Auto / M44. Parts List • Radiator, 17111728905 - $128 (ebay - AC Imports) • OE Water Pump, 11510393338? - $79.82 (Tischer BMW) • 1 Gallon... |  |  | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by mdlane72  Block Coolant Drain Seal Ring, 07119963200 wasn't put on. .... I am not sure where in the world this little what appears to be aluminum ring gasket even goes. | Block coolant drain plug is on the passenger side of the engine block just below the exhaust manifold. This is the washer/seal that goes on the bolt. You should see coolant dripping down the block on the passenger side if it is not sealed properly. Part #4:  | | | By durty on 09-15-2011, 06:47 PM |
Love the write up, have you had any problems with your ebay radiator?
-durty | | | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by durty Love the write up, have you had any problems with your ebay radiator?
-durty | Nope, no problems at all. | | | By LJSand on 01-18-2012, 04:30 AM | Question for you? I have a 98 z3 1.9. This is the Same setup?
Hi, I love your tutorial. I have a 98 z3 1.9 and the coolant hose connector has split and is leaking. This looks like exactly what I need to do for 1 $15 part replacement. How difficult was it? Special tools? Torque wrench etc.? About how long did it take on the manifolds and fuel system? Thanks, Larry  | | | | |
Hi Larry,
The project is not very hard, but it's what I'd call "involved". There's a lot of little stuff that needs to get removed to access the actual work on the cooling connectors and hoses that are hidden deep in the engine. I'd make sure you keep good-track of which electrical connector went-where, as you are going to disconnect nearly everything on that engine harness. Besides a lot of little work to open it up, there's numerous tight squeezes to unbolt/disconnect certain things. It's been a while since I did this but I seem to remember the coolant connector on the back of the head a very tight squeeze as was the starter connections. I believe I best accessed the starter connections from under the car and reached way up in there. So, be prepared to do some close quarters work.
No special tools involved, just a basic set of metric tools. I use a 1/4" bit driver with a 6mm (usually) socket for doing the hose clamps. Other than that most things are a 10mm or 13mm socket and often an extension, roughly 5"-10" should do. I think there's listed torques for many of these fasteners, but either you'll never get a torque wrench where it needs to be, or they are smaller bolts going into aluminum and I'm afraid of any torque wrench with those kind of fasteners - I try to just go by feel - snug usally is good. Just make sure you get those hose clamps nice and tight; using a bit driver for those greatly limits the torque (vs. a small ratchet/combo wrench). I usually twist very firmly with a bit driver and have never had a problem.
You could probably do the project in one full day taking your time. I don't know what time it took me, but I do know my project lasted two days because I had an incorrect hose (as I mentioned in the original post). | | | By LJSand on 01-29-2012, 07:54 AM | Question I have reached an impass
Hi,
I have been moving along well but I am stuck. Two questions, how do you remove the electrical connector unit that sits right on the mainifold in the middle. It is the one the fuel rail plugs in to? Then the big question is how many bolts to take of the mainifold. I am so close but I am stumped. I have taken what I can see but it doesn't budge. Also, I will need a new mainifold gasket, won't I? I wasn't thinking about that.
You have been so helpful and I appreciate it!
Thanks,
Larry | | | | |
The entire electrical harness will fold-away towards the firewall once you disconnect all the electrical connectors. It will totally clear the lower manifold once it's loose. There's a bunch, so make sure you track each wire coming out of that electrical "box" that sits in between the upper and lower manifold halves. Post #4 HERE will have the best pictures of the wiring harness in place, then removed (folded back and out of the way). You'll see that almost all the wires on that main harness get fed through the center of the lower intake manifold. This is where all that tight hand squeezing comes into place. Have you gotten the upper manifold off yet? There should be five nuts that hold the lower intake manifold on the face of the head, plus more hardware under the DISA valve - I think two bolts You'll be able to completely remove the fuel rail before you need to disconnect all those electrical connectors. Doing that will actually give you more room to work and see. Note * The four electrical plugs going to each of the four injectors are kind-of part of that harness so they will obviously need to be removed before you can fully remove the fuel rail. You can see in the first photo in post #4 that the injector plugs have just been disconnected. Yes, you probably should use a new gasket, but if your old one is still in pretty good shape I think a thin film of silicone sealant (like Permatex Ultra Grey) will seal it well. If you are in no rush to get it all back together I'd get a new one. They are $3.77 at AutoHausAZ.com. Part #11611734684. I can highlight or point out things in my existing photos if you need me to. | | | By mars on 04-26-2012, 03:23 AM |
 how can u reach the bolt? it holds the lower manifold i cannot even see it did u remove the Disa Valve to reach that bolt? | | Last edited by mars; 04-26-2012 at 04:05 AM.. | | |
I just ran out to take a look and, while that bolt is hard to see, it is very easy to feel. I used my left hand (tunrd slight away from the car) and there was no problem feeling the bolt. It is accessable with a socket and short extension. Nothing has to be removed (at least not on my 1997) .
I admit, taking the manifold off is a bit of work, but putting it on is easier.
One tip, replace the vacuum hoses while you are under there, or, at the very least check them. Make sure you mark them with tape as to where they go, I found out the hard way that it is tough to figure out once off. The factory color is not going to be visible. | | | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by mars how can u reach the bolt? it holds the lower manifold i cannot even see it did u remove the Disa Valve to reach that bolt? | I got to it underneath the car. I could actually fit a socket wrench up there and loosen it. Navigate the hoses, it's actually quite simple from underneath. | | | | |
I agree, it is very easy to see from under the car. I'm sure once you know where it is it will be easy to get a socket on it, even from above. | | | By mars on 05-06-2012, 09:30 PM |
When u put the new block coolant connector to the hole, was it perfect fit? I mean any gap between the connector and the block surface? There is a gap, no matter how I put it, I am afraid it will leak.
Thanks | | | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by mars When u put the new block coolant connector to the hole, was it perfect fit? I mean any gap between the connector and the block surface? There is a gap, no matter how I put it, I am afraid it will leak.
Thanks | Use some WD-40 or other lubricant on the gaskets, and shove it in there before bolting it down. | | | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by mars When u put the new block coolant connector to the hole, was it perfect fit? I mean any gap between the connector and the block surface? There is a gap, no matter how I put it, I am afraid it will leak.
Thanks | I'm guessing it's like the bad ones I posted in this thread? http://318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16068&page=3 The whole units get warped and will not install properly. I think I'd suggest people order about three of these from your local dealer and choose the best one - just make sure you can return the others with no "restocking fee". people say only buy OE/genuine BMW parts, but in the thread I posted pictures showing even the real BMW parts can be faulty. If you need the car back on the road ASAP I'd say bust out the RTV silicone and seal it as good as you can. If you have time, order a couple more and find a good one. | | | | | Not a tight fit
I remember that the fit is not tight. Since it is the O ring that must seat a perfect fit isn't 100% needed, but the Oring must be totally seated. The thing will not tighten up right to the block, that is for sure, but it probably is ok if the O rings are fully in the block. I used some or the silicone grease that is used for spark plugs and that ensured the orings would not bind up. I don't know if this is ok chemically but the grease keeps the Oring from twisting. I also made sure the seating surface inside was smooth using a greenie cleaning sponge with light pressure. Needs to be really clean since the old fitting was all rotted. The big issue here is, you won't want to take the mainifold off again, though I have heard of plenty of people who did have to take it off and replace the warped plastic fitting. I bought the aftermarket one and it was warped, so,, I sent it back and went to BMW. I think it was like $ 75 bucks and was also slightly warped looking. But the parts guy said it would work and it did, going on 2 years now. | | Last edited by bob_bmw_101; 05-07-2012 at 01:31 AM.. | | |
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