 » Site Navigation | | | | » Recent Threads | | | |  |  |  | |  03-22-2007, 06:27 AM | #1 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Port St. Johns, Florida Posts: 2,242 |  beer cans for the Club Sport.
Monster Thicky Subframe mounts  |  |  | | 03-22-2007, 06:46 AM | #2 | | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 1,587 |
Quite beefy aren't they?  My Ireland's have now have 37,000 miles on them and they seem to be doing just fine. | | | | | 03-22-2007, 06:58 AM | #3 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Port St. Johns, Florida Posts: 2,242 |
I got RTABs also. | | | | | 03-22-2007, 07:00 AM | #4 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Port St. Johns, Florida Posts: 2,242 |
Did you have to press your subframes bushings in? Or can they be done with simple tools/hands/Liquid Dish Soap Lube? | | | | | 03-22-2007, 07:03 AM | #5 | | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 1,587 |
The Irelands just popped right in. I think I tapped them with a rubber mallet just a tad, but they were pretty simple. Getting the old stock ones out was another story. They SUCK! If you can do it carefully (the gas tank is awfully close by), I'd suggest using a propane torch to heat the bushings before you try to press them out.
If I were to do it again today (without a good puller), I'd drop the whole subframe and just melt the old subframe bushings out. | | | | | 03-22-2007, 07:04 AM | #6 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Port St. Johns, Florida Posts: 2,242 |
I'd drop the whole subframe and just melt the old subframe bushings out.
that's the plan for Saturday. | | | | | 03-22-2007, 07:37 AM | #7 | | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 1,587 |
I saw pictures of an E30 guy doing that after I did mine. I wanted to punch myself for making it so difficult. | | | | | 03-22-2007, 01:41 PM | #8 | | doesn't care about you. Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 3,925 |
Sweet! Can you take notes when you drop the rear subframe for me? I'll be ordering my subframe, RTABs and diff bushings today. I'm planning on dropping my subframe in the next couple weeks to replace bushings and have the IE camber/toe plates welded in. Gotta get this done before the first autox of the year!! __________________ 
'99 Dinan M3 | | | | | 03-22-2007, 02:13 PM | #9 | | Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 528 |
Sweet, let me know how they feel. | | | | | 03-22-2007, 04:24 PM | #10 | | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Florida Posts: 2,525 |
I've got the orange ones with the IE RTABs, the black ones. They feel great on my car... Let me know what you guys want to know about dropping the subframe. I had my mechanic do it, but I was there when they did it. In my opinion a lift is absolutely essential to doing this. I could not imagine doing it with a floor jack and some jack stands... Being able to get two people up under the car made it a lot easier...  Notice that the middle metal bar on my subframe bushings are to long. I ended up getting the E30 rear subframe bushings. So we had to cut that middle bar and machine an indention into the top of the bushing. | | | | | 03-22-2007, 06:23 PM | #11 | | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 1,587 |
I dropped it with just a floor jack and the rear supported by jackstands. I think the biggest pain is disconnecting the brake lines. It just sucks having rebleed everything when you're done. I wish I had a camera at the time I dropped it  Everything else is just undoing nuts and bolts, and disconnecting a few electricall connections (ABS, Brake Sensor). I placed a floor jack right under the diff which balanced the entire unit pretty well. One tricky part is pulling apart the driveshaft-to-differential connection while you are lowering the subframe. The driveshaft bolts, on mine anyways, were essentially pressed into the driveshaft flange. Therefore, I needed to pull the subframe assembly back, while lowering it. There's a brace across the transmission tunnel between the center bearing and the diff. Unbolt that brace and it will allow the driveshaft to flop down feely making it easier to lower the subframe. Also, the big main subframe stud nuts are pretty big and tight. If you don't have an impact gun, you might want to break them loose while the car is still on the ground. | | | | | 03-22-2007, 07:40 PM | #12 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Port St. Johns, Florida Posts: 2,242 |
I got the black RTAB too, I thought I had the reds coming. eh..either way they work. | | | | | 03-23-2007, 12:09 AM | #13 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: SOUTH Jersey Posts: 1,085 |
so which colour is best for a mostly street driven car? | | | | | 03-23-2007, 03:43 AM | #14 | | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Florida Posts: 2,525 |
Green. Those are the street version.
You might also want to check out the powerflex rear bushings for the Ti. Although I have to assume that they are comparable to the IE stuff. And there are a lot of E30's out there that have been running the IE bushings for years. | | | | | 03-23-2007, 04:55 AM | #15 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Richmond Hill, GA Posts: 1,231 |
may I ask how much these bushings cost? | | | | | |
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