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Old 02-03-2018, 03:13 AM   #1
cocofunk
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Default Plan for tracking the Ti. Validate and give feedback please.

Long story short. Purchased a 318ti in order to use it as a daily driver. Found out it was spilling too much oil and couldn't figure it out in time, after all I needed it daily. I ended up buying another 318ti daily now, so I have an extra 318ti. Was going to sell it, but now I'm going to just fix it and track it. How do I go about this?

My plan :
Replace all gaskets and seals. (oil pan, front oil seal, timing chain cover gaskets, etc)
New water pump
New tstat
New oil filter housing gasket with bush
Delete AC
Delete interior stuff
Short shifter (since I'm dropping the oil pan anyway)
New pads
Brake fluid flush and fill with the blue stuff

Hopefully This gets the oil leak fixed. The car is on koni's, lowering springs, and already handles very well. I will check the bushings and control arms and probably replace with new. And the car also has 310k miles.

I'm just planning to race it until the engine explodes and build an m52 in the meantime to swap in.

Am I missing something or should I consider installing something while I am doing all the seals and gaskets?

Input welcome.
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Old 02-03-2018, 03:33 PM   #2
BlackBMWs
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Here's what I do in addition to what you mention. I'm certain others will have more feedback
  • All cooling Hoses, check age condition of radiator.
  • Check power steering reservoir, replace if necessary.
  • Flush brake fluid, get track/Autox streetable pads (i.e. Hawk HP+)
    I do SS brake lines.
  • Assess suspension for what you want to do. I run coilovers
  • Front xBrace, rear strut bar, then front strut bar.
  • FOGG front airbox
  • Freeier flowing exhaust
  • Consider a Z3 steering rack, (there was a Z3 at San Jose Pick n Pull last week)
  • Nice light wheels with appropriate tires.
  • I install wheel studs for easier wheel changes
  • Light bucket seat w/4, preferably 5 point harness
  • Tow eyes or straps
  • comfortable SA2015 or later helmet

Have fun, perhaps I'll run with you at a NorCAL or SoCal event.

Cheers!
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1998 318ti Sport - "Cali" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, Cali top
1998 318ti Sport - "Max" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, S52
1997 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior
1995 318ti Active - "Blanca" Alpineweib III/Schwartz leather interior

Other Current Bimmers: 2000 2.3L Z3 / 1997 1.9L Z3 / 1991 318ic / 1999 540it

1997 318ti Sport - "Huera" - RIP
1995 318ti Active - RIP
1995 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Sold
1994 325i Sedan - "Jade" - Sold
1985 635csi sold
1984 533i "Max" Sold
1984 318i sold

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Old 02-06-2018, 07:53 PM   #3
Olmsteez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackBMWs View Post
Here's what I do in addition to what you mention. I'm certain others will have more feedback
[LIST][*]Check power steering reservoir, replace if necessary.
I'm doing a track build right now. I think I covered just about everything on your list except this one. Of all the power steering components, I would have probably replaced the pump and hoses before considering this one. Is the reservoir a common failure item? What about the hoses and pump?

My only contribution to the list is the motor, trans and diff mounts and all the suspension bushings.
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Old 02-07-2018, 02:41 AM   #4
SlowBimma
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I agree with the comments above. If you're on a budget I'd suggest locating and dealing with your fluid leaks first so they stay where intended and not on the track. Something else I tell people is not to over tighten their small fasteners for these gaskets. Most only torque to 7-15 ft-lbs which is usually done by hand. You do more harm than good when you over tighten because now you've pinched a brand new gasket and are still leaking oil. Put the piece in place, tighten the gasket from the inside out to spread the clamping load to the edges. If you notice a leak then come back and tighten up a little more. There will be a happy medium, I just did my whole top end this way and other than the valve cover needing a bit more tightening up, none have leaked so far. Seat time, good tires, a helmet, and maybe some racing seats are what I would suggest before spending thousands on brand new suspension. Unless these parts are completely blown out. Good luck with the build and keep us updated!
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Old 02-08-2018, 12:24 AM   #5
ZEK
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Congrats, sounds like it will be a fun and quick track car. Replace the control arm bushing with the e36 M3 ones. Replace motor and trans mounts. Diff if needed. Have the subframe/RTA bushings been done? If not those will definitely need replaced. ATE Blue is no longer offered due to US regs. But any quality DOT4 will suffice.

As for M52, if you plan on stripping down to block I would recommend making a 3.0 stroker. This is done by using the M54 rotating assembly if I remember correctly. There are various builds of using that combo online. It's been called the poor mans S50 but nothing is really cheap for these motors. Or keep it 2.8 and do some head work for the revs.
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Old 02-08-2018, 02:46 PM   #6
BlackBMWs
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Default Plan for tracking the Ti. Validate and give feedback please.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Olmsteez View Post
I'm doing a track build right now. I think I covered just about everything on your list except this one. Of all the power steering components, I would have probably replaced the pump and hoses before considering this one. Is the reservoir a common failure item? What about the hoses and pump?

My only contribution to the list is the motor, trans and diff mounts and all the suspension bushings.


Ah, yes, on my current build, I went with solid engine and tranny mounts, Powerflex subframe bushings, Delrin trailing arm bushings. I still have a powerflex diff mount to swap in.

Itís a S52. I also swapped in a ZF tranny with the larger flex disc, solid short shifter, Delrin bushings, UUC shift rod, LW FW with E34 M5 PP and Clutch.

Previous car was M44 based. Just replaced the Motor mounts and Tranny mounts with new stock versions. Stock subframe and trailing arm bushings. Brakes were upgraded tho to E46 dual vented with E34 rears.

As far as the PS reservoir, there is a unreplacable filter in the bottom of it that clogs over time that helps contribute to leaks. They are cheap and I just replace them. I hate leaks.

I should take one apart tho, as I have never seen the filter in the bottom.

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1998 318ti Sport - "Cali" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, Cali top
1998 318ti Sport - "Max" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, S52
1997 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior
1995 318ti Active - "Blanca" Alpineweib III/Schwartz leather interior

Other Current Bimmers: 2000 2.3L Z3 / 1997 1.9L Z3 / 1991 318ic / 1999 540it

1997 318ti Sport - "Huera" - RIP
1995 318ti Active - RIP
1995 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Sold
1994 325i Sedan - "Jade" - Sold
1985 635csi sold
1984 533i "Max" Sold
1984 318i sold

BMWCCA #160411

SUPPORT 318ti.org! CLICK THE LINK ABOVE!
Hosting a forum like this is not free. 318ti.org is one of the best BMW forums on the web because it is member supported, not vendor supported. The cost to become a Supporter is a nominal $10.00... A YEAR! DO IT! NOW!

Last edited by BlackBMWs; 02-13-2018 at 04:03 AM.
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Old 02-13-2018, 02:26 AM   #7
cocofunk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowBimma View Post
Something else I tell people is not to over tighten their small fasteners for these gaskets. Most only torque to 7-15 ft-lbs which is usually done by hand. You do more harm than good when you over tighten because now you've pinched a brand new gasket and are still leaking oil.
All Great suggestion as well as this one.

I just started tackling the entire rear and dropped the exhaust and undid the entire rear. The rear subframe is ready to drop, I just need to buy 2 more jack stands to actually drop it.

Now that I have been inspecting and might go 24v in the future, I am just going to do everything now.

SS lines
rear wheel bearings
pads
diff flush/refill with redline
75d akg poly subframe and diff bushing
trailing arm bushings
rear sway
rear sway bar bushing links
z3 rear shock mounts
center support bearing
missing anything that I "should do while there"?

Question about the bushings... I hear different philosophies. I know a guy (super fast and experienced - as well as material science engineer) who runs stock/softer bushings in places which are on a hinge (i.e. trailing arms) and runs harder bushings (i.e. polyurethane, solid) in places which are stationary (i.e. subframe, diff bushing). What is your perspective on this? I think it makes sense for absorption/dampening. I was thinking of doing the same.

Ahhh yes - and should I do the rear reinforcement stuff too? Is it necessary? Rear Camber adjustment, reinforcement tabs, etc.

Last edited by cocofunk; 02-13-2018 at 02:29 AM.
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