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Old 12-18-2015, 02:47 AM   #211
wolferj-RIP
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I just order replacement rubber guides when I know I'm going to be working on a window for the first time. No need to try and clean the felt, and the rubber will be fresh.
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Old 02-19-2017, 05:18 PM   #212
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So many recommendations on this repair..! I have the regulator, guide felt and that's it. After i get new rivets do i "really" need anything else? Besides cleaning the components...

There was a thread/link that showed every part and part number needed to overhaul the entire door assembly... Do you guys have it?
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Old 02-01-2018, 11:56 PM   #213
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Simply put...PITA.
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Old 02-03-2018, 04:04 AM   #214
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Replacing the window regulator isn't terribly hard. I used an excellent tutorial that I found online (but can't find right now to share, unfortunately). The window slides in vertical tracks, which you can check for deformation and either replace or bend back into shape. I have found that lubricating the track that the two white "cars" slide in helps. In fact, I'll be opening up my driver's door tomorrow to apply some lubricant as a preventative measure. Good luck!
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Old 02-03-2018, 03:42 PM   #215
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One other thing that helps is to replace the rubber window guide in the rear rail that the window slides in. They get old, hard and not so slidey any more and help bind the window.

I keep a few spares along with the window sliders as I renew my TIs.
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Old 02-20-2019, 04:53 AM   #216
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I'm not saying this is always the case, but I have fix a few of these that had nothing wrong with the regulator, motor, sliders, etc. The pinch weld in the front of the door, that connects the front track to the inner door skin, breaks. This allows the bottom of the window to pop out on the way down. Then on the way up the top pops out and the window falls into the door, or blinds up really bad bending the regulator arm and breaking the plastic sliders. The arm can be straightened, but the sliders are usually shot. The pinch weld can break on the track side and wont be seen by looking at the door. Sometimes the track will pull the weld through leaving an obvious hole. I've seen both. Reach in and wiggle the bottom of the front track, it shouldn't move at all. If it does, hold the track out of the way and drill an 1/8 inch hole "through" the weld. Then put the track back and drill through your first hole and through the tab for the track. Finish with a short screw for sheet metal. Don't over tighten. When drilling the tab, drill just outside the original weld. You want to make the gap between the front and rear tracks smaller. There was play when these cars were new, when the felt was fluffy and the rubber was new.
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Old 02-20-2019, 05:11 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sortasorted View Post
I have fixed a few of these and have not had one actually be the regulator or any window parts. The pinch weld in the front of the door, that the bottom of the front track is attached to the inner door skin, breaks and allows the bottom of the window to pop out on the way down. Then on the way up the top pops out and the window falls into the door or blinds up really bad bending the regulator arm, which can be carefully straightened back out. It often breaks the inside of the weld and can't be seen by looking at the inside of the door. Sometimes the track will pull the weld through leaving a hole, I've seen both. Reach in and wiggle the bottom of the front track, it shouldn't move at all. If it does, move the track out of the way and drill an 1/8 inch hole through the weld. Then put the track back where it should be plus a little, to make it a bit tighter between the front and rear track than stock, and drill through your first hole through the tab for the track and put a 1/4 stinger screw threw them both but dont over tighten. Lithium grease the sliders and test.

Interesting...never thought to look for that. Definitely going to check that out when it warms up enough for me to fix my passenger side window...
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