318ti.org forum

Go Back   318ti.org forum > Technical, Maintenance and Modifications > Engine

Notices

Engine Tuneups, chips, wires, spark plugs.

.
» Recent Threads
New ti owner from Chicago
10-12-2018 10:28 PM
Last post by K12Pilot
Today 01:31 PM
7 Replies, 1,030 Views
names for your TI
10-08-2004 04:48 AM
Last post by andakn
Today 02:38 AM
347 Replies, 82,012 Views
Age Demographics
10-30-2004 05:06 AM
Last post by Locus7
Yesterday 03:04 AM
322 Replies, 87,877 Views
FS: 1998 Black BMW 318ti...
10-29-2016 07:52 AM
Last post by winky
11-18-2018 11:31 PM
12 Replies, 8,971 Views
What model ti do you own?
02-26-2003 04:40 AM
Last post by K12Pilot
11-18-2018 01:51 PM
324 Replies, 108,390 Views
New to the Ti but not...
11-18-2018 01:48 PM
Last post by K12Pilot
11-18-2018 01:48 PM
0 Replies, 93 Views
Long time swapped to...
11-16-2018 04:12 AM
Last post by Toolmaker
11-18-2018 03:04 AM
2 Replies, 228 Views
FS Black 1997 318ti...
11-09-2018 01:05 AM
Last post by tmca
11-17-2018 09:14 PM
4 Replies, 914 Views
205/60r16 tires on model...
11-17-2018 06:02 PM
Last post by mrmikkelsen
11-17-2018 06:02 PM
0 Replies, 152 Views
SIR crankshaft tool
11-17-2018 04:56 AM
Last post by S.W.B.C
11-17-2018 04:56 AM
0 Replies, 182 Views
Reply Share/Bookmark
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-26-2011, 04:47 AM   #31
blowin 4
Senior Member
 
blowin 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: san jose
Posts: 425
iTrader: (0)
Default

car is acting up again i dont know what to do im going to make a tempary fuel pump kill switch till i figure out this problem the only way the car start is by pulling the fuel relay ...kinda emberrasing when u have to pop the hood and start yr car while ppl are checking out yr car in the parking lot of some store or gas station you think lol...
blowin 4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 08:06 AM   #32
blowin 4
Senior Member
 
blowin 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: san jose
Posts: 425
iTrader: (0)
Default

looks like im dealing with clinder wash down from a bad tune fml im getting 60 psi when car wont start 95 psi after clinder drys up 135 psi if i poor oil in the clinder .off to mm for rehone and new rings. thats if i didnt screw up the piston skirts and clinder walls ...
blowin 4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 07:06 PM   #33
xxxJohnBoyxxx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gulfport, Florida
Posts: 3,208
iTrader: (1)
Default

95psi with cylinder dry is correct. I've never had over 100psi on any cylinder and I have less then 2% leak-down on all cylinders. These are low compression motors and should not make 135psi at anytime.

I would do a leak-down before I pull and send the motor off...

John S
xxxJohnBoyxxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 09:31 PM   #34
blowin 4
Senior Member
 
blowin 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: san jose
Posts: 425
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
95psi with cylinder dry is correct. I've never had over 100psi on any cylinder and I have less then 2% leak-down on all cylinders. These are low compression motors and should not make 135psi at anytime.

I would do a leak-down before I pull and send the motor off...

John S
Talk to Jim this morning do to low cylinder compression and cams it's right dry 95 psi wet 115 psi I explained what's going on he said to things fuel pump check vales is bad do to car will start warn if restarted right away if sits for 30 seconds won't start unless hold gas and crank for 39 seconds for fuel to build up . Or cuz not much ppl now how to tune cold stArt values for this ecu that the injectors ate pulsing pig rich at crank cycle witch makes sence . He said I might need to run extra injectors in manifold when boosting and a 2nd fuel control system when I put back my 440 cc I don't have Amy start problems .
blowin 4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2011, 12:59 AM   #35
xxxJohnBoyxxx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gulfport, Florida
Posts: 3,208
iTrader: (1)
Default

You are having warm start enrichment which is the issue. Either remove it from the tune or figure out why the DME is enriching when it is warm.

If it was fuel pump pressure valve you would not need to pull the relay for it to start right, you are injecting too much fuel on warm starts. 440cc injectors are smaller so it will inject less on the warm start so that is most likely the only reason they work ok.

I would fix the issue which is for some reason your DME thinks it needs enrichment fuel on warm starts...This is all related to your head temp sensor, if the sensor is good then the wiring has issues or the tune has warm start enrichment in it and needs to be removed from the tuning...

Simple issue too much fuel on warm starts. Fix the issue don't Jerry-Rig it with small injectors and a secondary kit that will need a standalone that is boost sensitive to run that motor.
xxxJohnBoyxxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2011, 04:46 PM   #36
blowin 4
Senior Member
 
blowin 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: san jose
Posts: 425
iTrader: (0)
Default freaking bad coil's

Heres the problem cold coil on left hot coil on right . low spark do to heat soak not enough spark to burn the gas...
blowin 4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2011, 07:18 AM   #37
blowin 4
Senior Member
 
blowin 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: san jose
Posts: 425
iTrader: (0)
Default

cars running great for over 2 weeks now pulled plugs today just to have a look noticed the groung tips are white! could that be cuz im only running one step colder plugs .also i see oil on the top of the piston in cylinder 1,3, & 4 (2) looks dry is that good or bad car dont smoke or burn oil im boosting 21 psi .
blowin 4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 04:51 PM   #38
xxxJohnBoyxxx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gulfport, Florida
Posts: 3,208
iTrader: (1)
Default

Don't worry about the ground straps how do the ceramic look. You want a slight off white color on the ceramic on the electrode tip. Ground straps can turn all different colors depending on the gas you burn.

On the piston color or tops it is most likely not oil you are seeing but carbon with gas on top. The only way to really inspect the tops of your pistons and be sure is remove the head or use a Boroscope and look through the spark plug holes. No one can look through a hole without a special tool and tell what is going on inside pn top of the pistons in our cars unless there is major obvious damage.

Take a macro picture of your plugs and post it with Mileage and I will tell you if lean/fat or fouled by oil or something else. Best way to read a motor is plugs with a hard run then push the clutch in and cut the motor and pull them and take the picture. Also are you logging with the LM-2? If so you should know if you are running lean/fat and that is the only thing to worry about other then timing being too high under boost

John S
xxxJohnBoyxxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 05:52 PM   #39
blowin 4
Senior Member
 
blowin 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: san jose
Posts: 425
iTrader: (0)
Default my plugs

look's a little rich at idle and a little lean at wot seem like heat range is ok what can you tell me john... [IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m11/tazy_01/IMG_4424.jpg[/IMG
these plugs have about 60- 80 miles on them . ill take better pic's later.
blowin 4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2011, 06:24 PM   #40
blowin 4
Senior Member
 
blowin 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: san jose
Posts: 425
iTrader: (0)
Default piston tops

top of my pistons after a bunch of pulls these pic's are from 2hours later the oil is dry and cooked from the heat i's fresh when i first pulled the plugs it's not speard around the pistons it's more of a line run down the piston witch makes me think the the valve steams are leaking maybe the motor not broke in fully i have exaclly 1,162 miles on it car sat for a year during turbo swap maybe i shouldnt boost over 12 pounds for an other 500 miles and see if that helps or maybe im just tripping oh and no all my cylinders read 85 psi and (4 )is at 100 psi wonder if it was a bad build or just not fully broke in any fed back please thank's looks like normal carbon build up on pic's but you can see a thick oil drop b 4 it drys up .
blowin 4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2011, 05:30 AM   #41
xxxJohnBoyxxx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gulfport, Florida
Posts: 3,208
iTrader: (1)
Default

No oil on plugs so I would say no oil issues. I like the Autolite 3922 plugs. Perfect heat range. I'm not sure but those look like 3923 since the ceramic is exposed a little but that could be the picture. Looks a tiny bit lean on the plugs but could be they are too hot of a plug or not enough run time. Make sure AFR is 11.5 or lower during boost runs. Piston tops look good on clear picture, blurry picture could just be a piston that got hit with gas before you pulled the plug. Oil will not dry up so if that drys it is not oil.

Your plugs show no issues with oil so I doubt you are burning any oil on this set of plugs. Also if you only did a few pulls and your AFR is 11.5 or close then leave it since the Autolite plugs take some time to show the tan color.

Looks good so far but just ensure 11.5 AFR during boost and plug heat 3922 Autolite or similar heat on your brand, you want that eletrode hidden in the spark plug for protection during boost.
xxxJohnBoyxxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2011, 05:37 AM   #42
blowin 4
Senior Member
 
blowin 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: san jose
Posts: 425
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
No oil on plugs so I would say no oil issues. I like the Autolite 3922 plugs. Perfect heat range. I'm not sure but those look like 3923 since the ceramic is exposed a little but that could be the picture. Looks a tiny bit lean on the plugs but could be they are too hot of a plug or not enough run time. Make sure AFR is 11.5 or lower during boost runs. Piston tops look good on clear picture, blurry picture could just be a piston that got hit with gas before you pulled the plug. Oil will not dry up so if that drys it is not oil.

Your plugs show no issues with oil so I doubt you are burning any oil on this set of plugs. Also if you only did a few pulls and your AFR is 11.5 or close then leave it since the Autolite plugs take some time to show the tan color.

Looks good so far but just ensure 11.5 AFR during boost and plug heat 3922 Autolite or similar heat on your brand, you want that eletrode hidden in the spark plug for protection during boost.
sweet i feel much better now im running little lean up top 12 A/F i will drop down to 11.5 plugs are ngk bkr 7e only one stage colder im going to run yr plug & see how i like them .thank's bud.
blowin 4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2011, 05:44 AM   #43
xxxJohnBoyxxx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gulfport, Florida
Posts: 3,208
iTrader: (1)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blowin 4 View Post
sweet i feel much better now im running little lean up top 12 A/F i will drop down to 11.5 plugs are ngk bkr 7e only one stage colder im going to run yr plug & see how i like them .thank's bud.
Run the 3922. I've run them for years and they are the only plugs I run. They are cheep but are copper which is the best conductor. They also hide the ceramic and tip in the plug so it is not exposed to the combustion process which is much safer on a boosted motor. I change mine every 10,000 miles. Autolite 3922 are cold plugs and the best by far, I have turned on a few people to these with boosted motors and all that have run them report less detonation issues and better running cars overall. Copper is the best metal to run, don't be fooled by high priced metal on your plugs, it only makes it harder for your coil to jump the gap and make a good spark.

Take the AFR to 11.5 and you will be a little safer with no loss in power. I run 11.0-11.3 on my AFR on my street tune and have seen no power increase by going any leaner like 11.5 or higher. It only damages parts when you run that lean

Also on the compression test, do it with the TB open and it might even out all cylinders.

John S
xxxJohnBoyxxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2011, 05:51 AM   #44
blowin 4
Senior Member
 
blowin 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: san jose
Posts: 425
iTrader: (0)
Default

i have ran 11.5 just feels like im loosing power my plugs are copper i like them but yr seem a bit better. im car hugs so much gas if im on it hard i get about 10miles to the gallon and it pulls like crazy and it also pulls to the left a little i think my trial arm bushing is going out i got the new one but never came around to install i hear its a pain in the buttt.
blowin 4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2011, 05:59 AM   #45
blowin 4
Senior Member
 
blowin 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: san jose
Posts: 425
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
Run the 3922. I've run them for years and they are the only plugs I run. They are cheep but are copper which is the best conductor. They also hide the ceramic and tip in the plug so it is not exposed to the combustion process which is much safer on a boosted motor. I change mine every 10,000 miles. Autolite 3922 are cold plugs and the best by far, I have turned on a few people to these with boosted motors and all that have run them report less detonation issues and better running cars overall. Copper is the best metal to run, don't be fooled by high priced metal on your plugs, it only makes it harder for your coil to jump the gap and make a good spark.

Take the AFR to 11.5 and you will be a little safer with no loss in power. I run 11.0-11.3 on my AFR on my street tune and have seen no power increase by going any leaner like 11.5 or higher. It only damages parts when you run that lean

Also on the compression test, do it with the TB open and it might even out all cylinders.

John S
i raced a stock chrysler 300 srt arent they 6.1 L 425 hp that car is fast i thought he had me as soon as the turbo kicked in he was 5 cars in my mirror & all i got from him was dirty looks. i should have rolled down my window and said how's it feel to get smoked by a 4 banger lmfao...
blowin 4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
warm start - no power 318ti_dad Engine 3 03-18-2009 01:27 AM
engine misfire and cold start problem 318technoviolet Engine 24 02-11-2009 11:04 PM
start-up problem UGU Maintenance 5 12-12-2006 04:35 AM
engine noise,whine,louder when engine warm jayzer Engine 1 05-30-2006 03:25 AM
Big Problem: Car won't start 1985mercurylynx Electrical 6 11-17-2004 02:48 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:16 PM.


.
Powered by site supporters
vBulletin Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1999 - 2018, 318ti.org
© vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2
[page compression: 131.02 k/154.93 k (15.43%)]

318ti.org does not warrant or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information or products discussed.