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Old 05-17-2011, 06:36 AM   #46
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i have ran 11.5 just feels like im loosing power my plugs are copper i like them but yr seem a bit better. im car hugs so much gas if im on it hard i get about 10miles to the gallon and it pulls like crazy and it also pulls to the left a little i think my trial arm bushing is going out i got the new one but never came around to install i hear its a pain in the buttt.
Do you know your total timing "all in" under boost? Just a few degrees will cause this loss in power and make you think you need to lean it out for more power. Once you get the timing perfect AFR will not make a big difference from 10.7-11.5. Only a few degrees advance will make a 50hp difference on our motors due to the crank stroke causing piston dwell at TDC to hang longer. Timing is a big factor on the MM 2.1L. When changing timing only do 1 degree advance in the map out of Lambda with your AFR at 11.0 and see what happens. After you see the difference from the timing changes then take your AFR to 11.3.

You should like this

I log knock sensors. If you are logging them you can really tune this car in. You will see knock come on and can check AFR and see if it was caused by timing or AFR. This is how Barrie got my car tuned so nicely. If you are logging Knock, RPM, MAF and AFR send my your logs and I can tell you exactly where and what needs to be done to make your tune perfect.
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:09 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
Do you know your total timing "all in" under boost? Just a few degrees will cause this loss in power and make you think you need to lean it out for more power. Once you get the timing perfect AFR will not make a big difference from 10.7-11.5. Only a few degrees advance will make a 50hp difference on our motors due to the crank stroke causing piston dwell at TDC to hang longer. Timing is a big factor on the MM 2.1L. When changing timing only do 1 degree advance in the map out of Lambda with your AFR at 11.0 and see what happens. After you see the difference from the timing changes then take your AFR to 11.3.

You should like this

I log knock sensors. If you are logging them you can really tune this car in. You will see knock come on and can check AFR and see if it was caused by timing or AFR. This is how Barrie got my car tuned so nicely. If you are logging Knock, RPM, MAF and AFR send my your logs and I can tell you exactly where and what needs to be done to make your tune perfect.
i have my timing a total of 15 degree im waiting in the interior guy then im looking for someone that will tune my car right i would say no later the june i will have dyno sheets.
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:40 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
Do you know your total timing "all in" under boost? Just a few degrees will cause this loss in power and make you think you need to lean it out for more power. Once you get the timing perfect AFR will not make a big difference from 10.7-11.5. Only a few degrees advance will make a 50hp difference on our motors due to the crank stroke causing piston dwell at TDC to hang longer. Timing is a big factor on the MM 2.1L. When changing timing only do 1 degree advance in the map out of Lambda with your AFR at 11.0 and see what happens. After you see the difference from the timing changes then take your AFR to 11.3.

You should like this

I log knock sensors. If you are logging them you can really tune this car in. You will see knock come on and can check AFR and see if it was caused by timing or AFR. This is how Barrie got my car tuned so nicely. If you are logging Knock, RPM, MAF and AFR send my your logs and I can tell you exactly where and what needs to be done to make your tune perfect.
hey john are you running a cat i have mine on its aftermarket with 3'' pipe i was told it would max at 500 hp was thinking of removing it only if it would make a difference.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:16 PM   #49
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hey john are you running a cat i have mine on its aftermarket with 3'' pipe i was told it would max at 500 hp was thinking of removing it only if it would make a difference.
No I run 3" mandrel bent through 2 - 3" resonators then in a 2 chamber 3" Flowmaster. You might see something by removing it but your car will be 1/3 louder and you won't be legal so it really isn't worth it. Down here they don't care if you have a cat or not so we don't run them, where you live I think it is a big deal.

If your worried about it on a street car install one of those 3" boost dump valves before the cat. Those will open under boost allowing 3" dump right after the turbo so you only have open exhaust under boost, pretty neat product...
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:13 PM   #50
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Cool. What's your plug gap set to?
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:20 PM   #51
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Cool. What's your plug gap set to?
Don't quote me but I think .35. Ask what they are suppose to be set at when you buy them. That is what I do. I'm pretty sure I do .35 on mine so the spark doesn't get blown out during boost.

A big gap will not jump under big boost due to the dense charge so I like a small gap
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:48 PM   #52
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With .35 shouldn't it be .27 or lower
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:33 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
Don't quote me but I think .35. Ask what they are suppose to be set at when you buy them. That is what I do. I'm pretty sure I do .35 on mine so the spark doesn't get blown out during boost.

A big gap will not jump under big boost due to the dense charge so I like a small gap
i like my gaps nice in tight ! hahahahhaha.
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:31 PM   #54
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With .35 shouldn't it be .27 or lower

I run stock coils for the M44 and stock gap for the Autolite 3922. They have always threated me good. No fouling and not issues with detonation from too hot of a plug. You can go lower but if you get too small you rish not getting a good lite on your charge. you need the combo of biggest and strongest spark. It is a balancing act, for coil output and plug gap. Biggest gap you can run without losing the biggest spark the plug can make
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:17 PM   #55
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I seem to be having a similar 'warm start' problem with my bone-stock, N/A M42. Car starts fine, idles fine when cold, but if I drive somewhere and stop, then restart the car within 10-15 minutes, it will almost never idle on it's own unless I keep the RPM's in the ~1500 range for 2-3 minutes. During this time, if I rev the engine up around 3K RPM, there is a definite miss and hesitation not unlike that caused by a rich mixture.

Looks like maybe I need to look into the head temp. sensor being the culprit. Thanks, JohnBoy!
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:46 PM   #56
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I use 3922s as per ur suggestion, and are doing fine... no issues.

However, my AFR reads 16.5 at idle, and goes down to high 14s to low 15s when I'm really on it.

Am I too lean?!

Max boost is 14-15, as per the gauge... Meth is set to start at 6psi, and full flow at about 13.

Plugs look white-ish, when I pull them out.

What am I doing wrong?

Do I go higher with the meth, or lower??

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

Run the 3922. I've run them for years and they are the only plugs I run. They are cheep but are copper which is the best conductor. They also hide the ceramic and tip in the plug so it is not exposed to the combustion process which is much safer on a boosted motor. I change mine every 10,000 miles. Autolite 3922 are cold plugs and the best by far, I have turned on a few people to these with boosted motors and all that have run them report less detonation issues and better running cars overall. Copper is the best metal to run, don't be fooled by high priced metal on your plugs, it only makes it harder for your coil to jump the gap and make a good spark.

Take the AFR to 11.5 and you will be a little safer with no loss in power. I run 11.0-11.3 on my AFR on my street tune and have seen no power increase by going any leaner like 11.5 or higher. It only damages parts when you run that lean

Also on the compression test, do it with the TB open and it might even out all cylinders.

John S
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Old 05-21-2011, 02:56 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by marko View Post
I use 3922s as per ur suggestion, and are doing fine... no issues.

However, my AFR reads 16.5 at idle, and goes down to high 14s to low 15s when I'm really on it.

Am I too lean?!

Max boost is 14-15, as per the gauge... Meth is set to start at 6psi, and full flow at about 13.

Plugs look white-ish, when I pull them out.

What am I doing wrong?

Do I go higher with the meth, or lower??
yeah thats way to clean your going to melt stuff i ran 11.9 with my charger and never had a problem . ppl say the white is from different gas but if you ask me its from leaning out cuz i was runing lean on 91 pump gas and my plugs are white i set it to 11.5 and now they look like normal plugs..
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Old 05-21-2011, 12:23 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marko View Post
I use 3922s as per ur suggestion, and are doing fine... no issues.

However, my AFR reads 16.5 at idle, and goes down to high 14s to low 15s when I'm really on it.

Am I too lean?!

Max boost is 14-15, as per the gauge... Meth is set to start at 6psi, and full flow at about 13.

Plugs look white-ish, when I pull them out.

What am I doing wrong?

Do I go higher with the meth, or lower??
Marko you are way lean under boost. When you add Meth your AFR should go into the 9's. Non Meth it should not go over 11.5
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Old 05-21-2011, 02:12 PM   #59
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****... Not sure what to do.

Car actually feels pretty good. No complaints in term of performance. Feels solid... but the afr read out does worry me.

I already got 42lb injectors... Do I go bigger? Is that the fix?

Or should I look into the accuracy of the gauge?

Or, do I go max with the meth?

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

Marko you are way lean under boost. When you add Meth your AFR should go into the 9's. Non Meth it should not go over 11.5
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Old 05-21-2011, 02:25 PM   #60
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****... Not sure what to do.

Car actually feels pretty good. No complaints in term of performance. Feels solid... but the afr read out does worry me.

I already got 42lb injectors... Do I go bigger? Is that the fix?

Or should I look into the accuracy of the gauge?

Or, do I go max with the meth?
I would say the gauge is not accurate. Maybe a exhaut leak or it needs to be calibrated per instructions. They doo need a claibration every 3-6 months. Lambda like idle and crusing should always be 14.7 and floating around there so I'm pretty sure your gauge is off
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