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Old 09-29-2013, 04:06 PM   #1
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Default 1995 Club Sport needing some TLC

As some of you know I recently acquired a Club Sport.
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38867

Handled very well. My 96 has race springs, and a very stiff suspension on 17s. I forgot how nicely these cars drove stock.

Like any old car these are going to be issues.
All I'm ready for.

First thing I noticed were none of the instrument cluster lights were on in the #1 position.
Replaced all the bulbs. Still no good.

Scanned faults codes. Found 2 faults.
Vehicle speed signal not present
DWA/EWS input
Cleared them.

Problem could be DME, wiring or cluster.
Took apart the cluster. Everything looked OK. No corrosion.
Removed the DME, inspected both sides, OK.

Swapped the cluster from my 96.
Warning lights working. ABS on. Probably due to the 96 cluster.
Unfortunately cracked my 96 cluster. A replacement is on the way.

teetimeforone and nineironkitty were good enough to offer to pull a ti cluster from a boneyard for me. Waiting for the cluster.

Replaced rusted battery hold down clamp.
Replaced missing battery cover.
Soaked bolts for battery compartment in PB Blaster.

Next was to replace the cracked window cowling trim.
Sucked out a $hit load of leaves from under the cowl.
Gave me an excuse to buy a shop vac.
Replaced the micro filters. Dan, bet you didn't know these cars had microfilters, did you?
Buttoned it all back together.

Replaced bulbs behind headlight and fog light switch.
Replaced hatch struts.

Changed the oil and filter. Replaced the o-rings on the filter cap.
Old ones were hard as rocks. It pays to buy BMW parts. I didn't know about the o-rings.

While under the car.
Subframe bushings shot. RTABs, LCABs need to be replaced.
Basically all the rubber needs to be replaced.
Also I think the e-brake cable's out casing is sheared off.
Beyond my level.

Next on the to do list, spark plugs. And maybe gas filter.
Gas filter looks easy. Just afraid of the mess.

Also engine is running on the cold side.
Will replace t-stat, t-stat housing just because I bought a new one.
Thought it was plastic. Replace bleeder screw.

Need to replace intake boot. Shows signs of cracking.
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Old 09-29-2013, 04:36 PM   #2
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This is going to be good!
Post pics or a short video soon eh?!.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:17 PM   #3
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Ran motor to top off oil after filling the oil filter.
Running rough now.

Replaced cracked intake boot and noticed fig 12 cracked.
From the diagram it looks like it connected to the bottom.
On mine it goes to the top.
Anything I need to know before replacing it?

Started to change spark plugs.
Oil! Guess that's where the oil smell is coming from.
Guess it makes more sense to replace to valve cover gasket before replacing the plugs.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version Name:	fig12.png Views:	146 Size:	10.3 KB ID:	14387  
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:00 AM   #4
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Enough said!! LOL!!
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:51 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazoh View Post


Enough said!! LOL!!
Yeah, yeah.
I'll do a lot for you guys, but get my phone dirty is not one of them.

When the car is outside I'll take some shots of what I've done so far.
Maybe I'll grab the microfilter out of the garbage. Yuch!
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:26 AM   #6
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Failed thermostat stuck open is the likely reason for the low temp on the highway...'95 is the last OBD1 year, no CEL for this AFAIK. Mine did this and a new thermostat fixed it.

Oil leak could be anyplace but one favorite spot is the oil filter housing gasket, it made a big difference in getting oil leaks down to nearly zero on my m42.
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:40 AM   #7
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<---- is watching this thread.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiponator View Post
Failed thermostat stuck open is the likely reason for the low temp on the highway...'95 is the last OBD1 year, no CEL for this AFAIK. Mine did this and a new thermostat fixed it.

Oil leak could be anyplace but one favorite spot is the oil filter housing gasket, it made a big difference in getting oil leaks down to nearly zero on my m42.
I have a t-stat waiting to be installed.
CEL is a bad cluster.
Oil is a leaky valve cover gasket.
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996 328ti View Post
Ran motor to top off oil after filling the oil filter.
Running rough now.

Replaced cracked intake boot and noticed fig 12 cracked.
From the diagram it looks like it connected to the bottom.
On mine it goes to the top.
Anything I need to know before replacing it?

Started to change spark plugs.
Oil! Guess that's where the oil smell is coming from.
Guess it makes more sense to replace to valve cover gasket before replacing the plugs.
I just replaced every hose under the hood on my Club Sport project. #12 is the hose to the idle control valve. It may be a little hard to get the new hose to seat all the way on the idle control valve with the throttle body in the way but it is certainly manageable.

Also, do the valve cover and spark plugs at the same time to save yourself some labor. Check the hose at the back of the valve cover to the crank case vent valve and make sure it is still good. In addition to that check the other idle control valve hose which connects at the back underside of the upper intake manifold.

Let me know if you need help. All this is very fresh in my head.
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:44 PM   #10
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I didn't bother replacing the plugs until I do the gasket.
I'll save that for when I'm off from work.
Kinda sorry I changed the oil.

The hose looks like it will need patience.
I didn't want to pull it out until I had a new one to look at.
The photo in realoem doesn't match up.
Hoping that takes care of my rough idle after changing the oil.
Or maybe it's because my DME was out of the car for a couple days?

As much as I'd like to change everything, I'm changing everything that has signs visible cracks.
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996 328ti View Post
The photo in realoem doesn't match up.
Yea... the idle control valve on the club sports is sandwiched between the upper and lower intake manifold.
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:02 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerBum View Post
Yea... the idle control valve on the club sports is sandwiched between the upper and lower intake manifold.
What a PITA.
I couldn't get the hose in for the life of me.
I removed the throttle body to get the hose in.
No more rough idle.

Cluster installed. Now have warning lights.

Next. Driver's door rattle and valve cover.
And finally get it registered.

Don't know if I want BMW CCA or 95 CS.
We are limited to 7 characters.
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Last edited by 1996 328ti; 10-08-2013 at 01:05 AM.
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Old 10-12-2013, 08:14 PM   #13
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Registered car.
Replaced valve cover gasket.
Good tip in removing battery compartment.
Still smell some oil. Most of the oil was leaking from the spark plug gasket.
Maybe old oil burning off?

After replacing the cluster I notice the needle points all the way cold until it's running for about 10 minutes. ???
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:26 PM   #14
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Noticed what I thought was a disconnected exhaust between the exhaust manifold muffler.
Turned out to be a loose shield.

But noticed a new issue.
There was water in the right hatch storage container.
Cleaned the water out. Removed the storage bin and found sand underneath.
Scrubbed it clean. Sand on the left side too.
Also need to replace the torn drain plug.

Maybe I should name the car Sandy?

As I said in another thread, the water temp works when I hit the dash. ??

Waiting on an O-ring for the cam sensor before I replace the t-stat.
Also need to adjust the e-brake. Handle is way too high.
Adjust from the wheel or adjust the nuts at the handle?
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996 328ti View Post
Also need to adjust the e-brake. Handle is way too high.
Adjust from the wheel or adjust the nuts at the handle?
If the nuts are as tight as they can go then you have to do it from the wheel and might even need a new cable or shoe but if you can tighten the nuts I would do that first
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