318ti.org forum

Go Back   318ti.org forum > Technical, Maintenance and Modifications > Engine

Notices

Engine Tuneups, chips, wires, spark plugs.

.
» Recent Threads
New to the group
05-20-2017 08:38 AM
Last post by theflyingmilkflo
Today 06:30 AM
5 Replies, 288 Views
Hey!
Yesterday 04:33 PM
Last post by hellarot
Today 02:51 AM
3 Replies, 132 Views
Seat repair or...
05-18-2017 03:25 AM
Last post by paul somlo
05-26-2017 07:08 PM
5 Replies, 837 Views
Cali top headliner...
05-21-2017 02:42 PM
Last post by newto318
05-26-2017 02:19 PM
4 Replies, 308 Views
1994 318Ti ,Long Story...
05-26-2017 03:51 AM
Last post by PeterMac
05-26-2017 03:51 AM
0 Replies, 188 Views
Testing dual radiator...
08-05-2011 02:49 AM
Last post by LeTi
05-25-2017 10:16 PM
52 Replies, 30,164 Views
Fs: 96 ti s50 swap
10-17-2016 07:19 PM
Last post by FarEastGrappler
05-25-2017 08:53 PM
7 Replies, 4,030 Views
Euro glass headlights
09-24-2014 10:27 PM
Last post by angelicmisskitty
05-25-2017 04:47 PM
132 Replies, 63,990 Views
rally car build
03-17-2017 11:51 PM
Last post by theflyingmilkflo
05-24-2017 08:05 PM
22 Replies, 3,118 Views
Intermittent loss of...
04-20-2017 03:06 AM
Last post by john318isau
05-24-2017 11:06 AM
42 Replies, 4,582 Views
Reply Share/Bookmark
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-16-2017, 08:12 AM   #31
john318isau
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 57
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick View Post
Do you have a boost or vacuum/boost gage installed?
Yes I do have a cheap digital gauge that does both. I haven't watched it though when the problem is happening, usually too busy finding a place to pull over...

On my way home from work today the problem was much worse than usual. Happened about ten times. Stalled a few times, once when stopped waiting at some lights. I guess its good its getting worse as it should make it easier to diagnose, but I'm not going to drive it to work as it is now as it's to stressful wondering when and where is going to happen next.

(My drive to work is country type highway roads but with quite a bit of traffic, and also a narrow mountain pass. There's lots of places where there is no room to stop, and there are lots of large trucks that use the highway. So far I've mostly been lucky where I have had to stop, and sometimes I have been able to keep moving at a slow pace, but I also want to avoid damage from backfiring.)

I think I'll try a crank sensor if I can find a cheap used one, as from research that seems like a likely cause too. I did measure mine and it showed around 650 ohms but maybe it could have an intermittent fault. I would like to check the wiring more as suggested here, but it's hard to get to. Would be great to remove some of the DASC parts to get access but probably a big job and new gaskets required?

Last edited by john318isau; 05-16-2017 at 10:33 AM.
john318isau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2017, 02:20 AM   #32
john318isau
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 57
iTrader: (0)
Default

I noticed when I last was checking codes, with the ignition on but engine not running, INPA was showing a voltage reading of 11.75 volts. With the engine running it's 13V+.

I understand a good battery should be reading 12.5V when fully charged.

Could I have a battery or charging issue that might be causing ignition problems too?
john318isau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2017, 05:19 AM   #33
maverick
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Henrico, VA USA
Posts: 226
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by john318isau View Post
I noticed when I last was checking codes, with the ignition on but engine not running, INPA was showing a voltage reading of 11.75 volts. With the engine running it's 13V+.

I understand a good battery should be reading 12.5V when fully charged.

Could I have a battery or charging issue that might be causing ignition problems too?


It is possible I guess as it's all computer controlled and susceptible to voltage issues.

I would try testing at the battery posts and again at the actual attached terminals with a reliable voltage meter. Testing the posts and then the terminals lets you know if corrosion maybe blocking some of the current.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
maverick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2017, 10:22 AM   #34
john318isau
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 57
iTrader: (0)
Default

Ok, had some more time to look at the car.

Battery is ~12.5V at rest so that is okay.

I received my new coil (looks like it has been dropped in transit though) and the car would not start at first. It did start after a few attempts but stalled. Then it ran for a little while and I was able to check with INPA while it was running. No change to any of the readings and smoothness is way out on cylinder 2 and less so on cylinder 3.

Then it died again and wouldn't start.

INPA was reporting cam sensor fault code again (112) so I unplugged the sensor and it started next attempt. I turned it off and re-connected the cam sensor and it started fine again.

Cam sensor fault code is appearing almost immediately now. As mentioned I had replaced it with a second hand one so maybe that one is faulty?

Is there anything else that can cause this error code (unplausible value it says)? Timing chain slackness or mis-firing perhaps?

I may have to try another cam sensor but I am getting sick of spending money on things that may not be needed.
john318isau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2017, 12:52 PM   #35
maverick
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Henrico, VA USA
Posts: 226
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by john318isau View Post
Ok, had some more time to look at the car.

Battery is ~12.5V at rest so that is okay.

I received my new coil (looks like it has been dropped in transit though) and the car would not start at first. It did start after a few attempts but stalled. Then it ran for a little while and I was able to check with INPA while it was running. No change to any of the readings and smoothness is way out on cylinder 2 and less so on cylinder 3.

Then it died again and wouldn't start.

INPA was reporting cam sensor fault code again (112) so I unplugged the sensor and it started next attempt. I turned it off and re-connected the cam sensor and it started fine again.

Cam sensor fault code is appearing almost immediately now. As mentioned I had replaced it with a second hand one so maybe that one is faulty?

Is there anything else that can cause this error code (unplausible value it says)? Timing chain slackness or mis-firing perhaps?

I may have to try another cam sensor but I am getting sick of spending money on things that may not be needed.


Thinking outside of the box.

Okay this all started after an engine cleaning. You are still getting unusual readings on the cam sensor that you swapped and the problem persists.

What's the chance of water getting into the harness someplace? One thing that wouldn't cost you maybe ordering another unneeded part would be to make sure no water got the DME itself. Unlikely but stranger things have happened.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
maverick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2017, 12:58 PM   #36
john318isau
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 57
iTrader: (0)
Default

I agree that there is a good chance it is related to the engine bay cleaning, except that the car started and ran fine after the cleaning and then drove at least 50km the next day before failing in this way for the first time.

I have had a look inside the dme compartment and it was dry. I haven't pulled apart the dme itself though.

I wish the wiring under the intake was easier to get to so I could check out better than I have. I also wish I had a known good cam sensor to try without having to buy another one.
john318isau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2017, 03:45 AM   #37
john318isau
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 57
iTrader: (0)
Default

When I measure the wiring socket for the camshaft sensor both the +12V and GND pins measure short circuit to ground, but with ignition on I see 12V. I'm not sure if this is normal or there is a short circuit. Any ideas?
john318isau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2017, 10:24 AM   #38
john318isau
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 57
iTrader: (0)
Default

With the ECU/DME disconnected that possible short circuit disappears. Not sure if this is how it should be or not.

Pin 54 of the ECU is where this connects to. It measure short to GND when the ECU is connected. When I disconnect the ECU there is no short from 54 to GND. If I check for short to GND for all the other sensors and devices that share the 12V from pin 54, none of them measure short to GND. I am confused.

Probably not related, but I also had a closer look at the piggyback computer that is mounted above my ECU (photo below). I never looked at it properly before but I see that it is not actually connected. The connector has been unplugged and some wires very poorly jammed in the connector to short some pins together (presumably re-connecting some of the ECU wires that were being modified by this unit).

I have found someone with a wrecked E36 who is sending me a cam sensor, crank sensor and O2 sensor, so will have these to try next week.


Last edited by john318isau; 05-18-2017 at 12:07 PM.
john318isau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2017, 10:11 AM   #39
john318isau
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 57
iTrader: (0)
Default

Just tried another cam sensor and a crank sensor. The crank sensor bolt was loose which I hoped might be the cause. But no good, I still have a constant cam sensor fault code being reported. I didn't bother driving it.

So I need some help from a fellow M44 owner.

My 12V line that is shared with most sensors measures short circuit to ground. This may be normal, but I don't think so. Can someone with a multimeter check if there's is the same. This is simple to do - just pop off the plug to the idle speed motor and measure the middle pin (pin 2) to ground and see if it measures short circuit (use continuity test or ohms/resistance check).
john318isau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2017, 12:22 PM   #40
john318isau
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 57
iTrader: (0)
Default

I found if I disconnect the O2 sensor the short circuit goes away. Another O2 sensor does the same thing, though, so this must be normal.
john318isau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2017, 06:30 AM   #41
john318isau
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 57
iTrader: (0)
Default

Still trying to figure this out. Has anyone ever heard of the camshaft sensor reference marker falling off or something like that, so the cam sensor cant pickup the position?

john318isau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2017, 05:57 PM   #42
maverick
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Henrico, VA USA
Posts: 226
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by john318isau View Post
Still trying to figure this out. Has anyone ever heard of the camshaft sensor reference marker falling off or something like that, so the cam sensor cant pickup the position?





I have never known of any such failure of it falling off, it's a pretty solid piece.

If my Compact was operational I would gladly do the testing you asked for. Someone should be able to oblige you I would hope.

The sensor wiring isn't something I have messed with much but something doesn't sound right about the way it seems to be working on your car but I can't be sure.

Sorry


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
maverick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2017, 11:06 AM   #43
john318isau
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 57
iTrader: (0)
Default

I decided to finally actually check a camshaft sensor (should have done this first, but seemed pointless with an intermittent fault).

I read on Pelican Parts website to connect 12V and GND, and watch for 12V on the middle pin with a multimeter when something metal passes in front of the sensor.

I just did this with one of my sensors and it did not show any output on the middle pin (0V) when I pass a large spanner in front of it.

So it appears to be dead, unless I am testing it wrong.

I am afraid to test another one of my three camshaft sensors in case I am testing it wrong.

But I suspect I am testing it correctly and another fault is damaging these sensors.

My theory is that whatever short circuit I am measuring between pin 54 of the ECU and GND is not right. Someone kindly did a test for me and did not read a short circuit in the same place, although I'm not sure they tested the same way.

Has anyone ever heard of camshaft sensors being damaged electrically by something external, maybe the ECU?

My next request is if someone has an open spare ECU they can do some electrical tests for me as I measure short-circuit on a couple of the transistors in mine. Would require a multimeter with continuity and/or diode tests.
john318isau is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Loss of power, engine vibration and squeal squeak noise bmwtinut Engine 7 11-18-2013 09:08 PM
engine light and loss of power on cold start please help kennypowers13 Engine 1 03-21-2013 09:27 AM
Intermittent lose of power under load Aquacleaner Engine 10 02-13-2013 05:35 PM
Intermittent Power Steering :( Mark VIII Misc 3 10-02-2006 05:00 PM
loss of power steering 97 318ti Maintenance 7 12-10-2005 07:55 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:46 AM.


.
Powered by site supporters
vBulletin Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1999 - 2017, 318ti.org
© vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2
[page compression: 119.32 k/141.08 k (15.43%)]

318ti.org does not warrant or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information or products discussed.