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Old 10-31-2008, 06:12 PM   #1
xxxJohnBoyxxx
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Default Metric Machanic M44 (FI)

Anyone know about these guys. $9,000 for a M44 all forged, stroker and at 225hp with no boost. They said easy 350 hp at 10psi boost. I'm tempted to save up for one of these motors and drop my DASC setup on it. I know everyone will say why not do a conversion. Well I don't want to run a 6 cylinder....I want the fastest possible 4 cylinder
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Old 10-31-2008, 06:31 PM   #2
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Wait for Marko to chime in, but metric mechanic = awesome. They are totally legit and know a lot about these little 4 cylinders.
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Old 10-31-2008, 07:35 PM   #3
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Thats exactly what I'm doing... in fact I just got off the phone with Metric - no more than 5 mins ago - and I'm told that my core head is already in the hot tank!

I started my little (snail pace) project simply cause my car needs a rebuild (not so much for pure HP gains)- and so I figured if I'm already gonna do it - I may as well do it properly.
I.E. high quality internals which will yield a 'bulletproof' motor.

so far I got the following:
Pistons & Rods $1800
Metric M44 Head $1600
Single Timing Chain Conversion $250
360 Degree Main Bearing Oiling Sys. $125
Cometic HG + APR Head Bolts (aprox.) $300-400

soon to come:
Lightweight Flywheel & 228mm clutch assembly $870 (from MM)
Stage 3 Technique Tunning Software + smaller SC pulley for 12psi of boost

Added bonus - 2.0L (with stock compression ratio).

As far as HP claims... I cant really say. I hope I end up with 200 on the wheels when its all said & done.
Again, I'm much more concerned with reliability & longevity of the motor than anything else.

You should call them & talk to them - very approachable & willing to suggest improvments according to your budget - ask for Teddy.

I was really guessing at everything before I spoke to them - & only after did I trully figure out which direction I was going to.
Try & read the info on their site too - lots of good stuff.

And yes, they are for real - down to earth & very helpfull.

Good luck.


Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
I'm tempted to save up for one of these motors and drop my DASC setup on it.
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Metric Mechanic's 2.0 stroker/258' intake cam/42 lb. inj./remap/HD fuel pump
/DASC w.3' pulley @ 15psi/SNOW System/3.45 LSD/Billstein PSS coils
/Stromung Exhaust/DS1's/X-Brace/Front & Rear H&R Sways/OMP 300mm SW
/SAP delete/ASC+T delete/Hayabusa valve springs/MM's LTW flywheel
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Old 10-31-2008, 09:13 PM   #4
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Thanks for the information. I spoke to them earlier this afternoon. I'm going to start saving and go with the 2100cc stroker M42 with a M44 head. They said they would do everything including the mod to get the M44 crank position sensor to work with my setup. Now I only need $10K and another visit to Nick G to ensure the DME supplies enough fuel. Looking for February on my tax return to do this...
Quote:
Originally Posted by marko View Post
Thats exactly what I'm doing... in fact I just got off the phone with Metric - no more than 5 mins ago - and I'm told that my core head is already in the hot tank!

I started my little (snail pace) project simply cause my car needs a rebuild (not so much for pure HP gains)- and so I figured if I'm already gonna do it - I may as well do it properly.
I.E. high quality internals which will yield a 'bulletproof' motor.

so far I got the following:
Pistons & Rods $1800
Metric M44 Head $1600
Single Timing Chain Conversion $250
360 Degree Main Bearing Oiling Sys. $125
Cometic HG + APR Head Bolts (aprox.) $300-400

soon to come:
Lightweight Flywheel & 228mm clutch assembly $870 (from MM)
Stage 3 Technique Tunning Software + smaller SC pulley for 12psi of boost

Added bonus - 2.0L (with stock compression ratio).

As far as HP claims... I cant really say. I hope I end up with 200 on the wheels when its all said & done.
Again, I'm much more concerned with reliability & longevity of the motor than anything else.

You should call them & talk to them - very approachable & willing to suggest improvments according to your budget - ask for Teddy.

I was really guessing at everything before I spoke to them - only after did I trully figure out which direction I was going to.
Try & read the info on their site too - lots of good stuff.

And yes, they are for real - down to earth & very helpfull.

Good luck.
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Old 10-31-2008, 09:31 PM   #5
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Thanks for the information. I spoke to them earlier this afternoon. I'm going to start saving and go with the 2100cc stroker M42 with a M44 head. They said they would do everything including the mod to get the M44 crank position sensor to work with my setup. Now I only need $10K and another visit to Nick G to ensure the DME supplies enough fuel. Looking for February on my tax return to do this...
Quote:
Originally Posted by marko View Post
Thats exactly what I'm doing... in fact I just got off the phone with Metric - no more than 5 mins ago - and I'm told that my core head is already in the hot tank!

I started my little (snail pace) project simply cause my car needs a rebuild (not so much for pure HP gains)- and so I figured if I'm already gonna do it - I may as well do it properly.
I.E. high quality internals which will yield a 'bulletproof' motor.

so far I got the following:
Pistons & Rods $1800
Metric M44 Head $1600
Single Timing Chain Conversion $250
360 Degree Main Bearing Oiling Sys. $125
Cometic HG + APR Head Bolts (aprox.) $300-400

soon to come:
Lightweight Flywheel & 228mm clutch assembly $870 (from MM)
Stage 3 Technique Tunning Software + smaller SC pulley for 12psi of boost

Added bonus - 2.0L (with stock compression ratio).

As far as HP claims... I cant really say. I hope I end up with 200 on the wheels when its all said & done.
Again, I'm much more concerned with reliability & longevity of the motor than anything else.

You should call them & talk to them - very approachable & willing to suggest improvments according to your budget - ask for Teddy.

I was really guessing at everything before I spoke to them - only after did I trully figure out which direction I was going to.
Try & read the info on their site too - lots of good stuff.

And yes, they are for real - down to earth & very helpfull.

Good luck.
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Old 10-31-2008, 10:17 PM   #6
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Well, since you got 10K to spend - do yourself a favor & give them the car - have them do everything & just pick it up when its done. If you do so, they will figure out the proper software for the car (they have an 'in house' tuner, that does everything for their projects - no guessing).

I'm on a budget, & so 10K is too rich for my blood. I'm hoping to get all the parts for what you see above (essentially a Metric motor) - but I'll have to pay extra for a machine shop to balance & fit everything together (still, much less than 10K).

If you have an M44 & a DASC, you want to do exactly what I'm doing. I'm saying this because their forced induction motors drop your compression to 8.5:1 which is way to low (intended for turbos)- and so you will lose HP. On the other hand, their NA motors (Rally) bring you up to 11:1 comression which will pretty much blow up your motor (when blown). DASC works best with stock confiuration & so they figured out for me that if they use M42 rods in conjuction with M44 FI pistons, you'll get 9.7:1 CR (something to do with a position of the connecting rod wrist pin). On top which if add a thiner head gasket (they sell them), you'll be exactly where you need to be, which is 10:1. If you have any doubt, just reference my project to them - & they'll know exaclty what you need (again, ask for Teddy!).

Just remember, at the end of it all you are still dealing with a 2.0L 4 banger, so dont go expecting 350HP. You aint gonna get it. What you'll get is a stronger motor than stock, with lighter/forged internals & less parasitic weight (specially if you get their flywheel & single timing chain conversion) - which then you'll be able to boost to hell & back & rev up to 7K with no issues. Like I said, I'm hoping for 200 on the wheels - which (I guess) is about 230 on the crank... but, it'll be indestructible.

Cheers & good luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
Thanks for the information. I spoke to them earlier this afternoon. I'm going to start saving and go with the 2100cc stroker M42 with a M44 head. They said they would do everything including the mod to get the M44 crank position sensor to work with my setup. Now I only need $10K and another visit to Nick G to ensure the DME supplies enough fuel. Looking for February on my tax return to do this...
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http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/damiennn666/318ti5-1.jpg?t=1217269847
SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!
Metric Mechanic's 2.0 stroker/258' intake cam/42 lb. inj./remap/HD fuel pump
/DASC w.3' pulley @ 15psi/SNOW System/3.45 LSD/Billstein PSS coils
/Stromung Exhaust/DS1's/X-Brace/Front & Rear H&R Sways/OMP 300mm SW
/SAP delete/ASC+T delete/Hayabusa valve springs/MM's LTW flywheel
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Old 10-31-2008, 11:14 PM   #7
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i want that engine so bad and like johnboy said i want one of the fastes, lighter 318TI with only 4 cylinders


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtnARdsgwWs
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Old 10-31-2008, 11:46 PM   #8
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I get a hard on every time I see that video... LOL

just look at the tach needle go off the charts - sick!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jean H.318TI View Post
i want that engine so bad and like johnboy said i want one of the fastes, lighter 318TI with only 4 cylinders


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtnARdsgwWs
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http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/damiennn666/318ti5-1.jpg?t=1217269847
SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!
Metric Mechanic's 2.0 stroker/258' intake cam/42 lb. inj./remap/HD fuel pump
/DASC w.3' pulley @ 15psi/SNOW System/3.45 LSD/Billstein PSS coils
/Stromung Exhaust/DS1's/X-Brace/Front & Rear H&R Sways/OMP 300mm SW
/SAP delete/ASC+T delete/Hayabusa valve springs/MM's LTW flywheel
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Old 11-01-2008, 12:23 AM   #9
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Im going to be rebuilding my engine this spring as well. I'll have to give them a call
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Old 11-01-2008, 12:35 AM   #10
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hella sickkkk
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Old 11-01-2008, 02:58 PM   #11
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Thanks for the advise but I'm at 238hp now with a 171,000 miles and never with the head off it is the original OEM longblock never opened. I know this motor is short lived but I've put 20,000 miles on this setup with no issues except screded guibo, 2 clutches and a broken drive u-joint. I installed a billet 9# flywheel, stage 3 Spec clutch and Beyer driveline....no more problems. I'm goin 2.1L with my setup and if I can boost 10psi on the 8.5:1 compression it will make close to 350hp around 7,300rpm per Metric with a redline of 7,800rpm. I have full control over the DME and will rent dyno time for Nick G to do a custom write on the firmware. I've had this car in the high 13's on my current setup with radial tires spinning through 1st and part of second. I'm going all out with a bulletproof Metric motor and hope to hold the title of fastest 318is with full OBDII and milage of 31/mpg highway plus reliable with A/C, 12 speaker system and quiet cabin while cruising on the highway with windows up. Car is heavy at 3120# now but I'm loosing 300 pound before I run it again at the track. Best time last wednesday was a 9.146 at 78.55 1/8 or a 14.27 ET in the 1/4 so I've got to loos that weight to get back in the 13's. I could never give the car to anyone for work. That takes the fun out of what I'm trying to do. If I have tuning issues I will bring the car to them for their guy to work on...but only after I fail with my plan. Buiding very fast cars, boats and jetskis is a life long hobby that I can't get out of my system.
Quote:
Originally Posted by marko View Post
Well, since you got 10K to spend - do yourself a favor & give them the car - have them do everything & just pick it up when its done. If you do so, they will figure out the proper software for the car (they have an 'in house' tuner, that does everything for their projects - no guessing).

I'm on a budget, & so 10K is too rich for my blood. I'm hoping to get all the parts for what you see above (essentially a Metric motor) - but I'll have to pay extra for a machine shop to balance & fit everything together (still, much less than 10K).

If you have an M44 & a DASC, you want to do exactly what I'm doing. I'm saying this because their forced induction motors drop your compression to 8.5:1 which is way to low (intended for turbos)- and so you will lose HP. On the other hand, their NA motors (Rally) bring you up to 11:1 comression which will pretty much blow up your motor (when blown). DASC works best with stock confiuration & so they figured out for me that if they use M42 rods in conjuction with M44 FI pistons, you'll get 9.7:1 CR (something to do with a position of the connecting rod wrist pin). On top which if add a thiner head gasket (they sell them), you'll be exactly where you need to be, which is 10:1. If you have any doubt, just reference my project to them - & they'll know exaclty what you need (again, ask for Teddy!).

Just remember, at the end of it all you are still dealing with a 2.0L 4 banger, so dont go expecting 350HP. You aint gonna get it. What you'll get is a stronger motor than stock, with lighter/forged internals & less parasitic weight (specially if you get their flywheel & single timing chain conversion) - which then you'll be able to boost to hell & back & rev up to 7K with no issues. Like I said, I'm hoping for 200 on the wheels - which (I guess) is about 230 on the crank... but, it'll be indestructible.

Cheers & good luck!
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Old 11-01-2008, 05:27 PM   #12
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very impresive! how did you get to 238? cant be just a dasc... my car feels like it has 180hp at most.
please share...

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
I'm at 238hp now with a 171,000 miles and never with the head off it is the original OEM longblock never opened
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SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!
Metric Mechanic's 2.0 stroker/258' intake cam/42 lb. inj./remap/HD fuel pump
/DASC w.3' pulley @ 15psi/SNOW System/3.45 LSD/Billstein PSS coils
/Stromung Exhaust/DS1's/X-Brace/Front & Rear H&R Sways/OMP 300mm SW
/SAP delete/ASC+T delete/Hayabusa valve springs/MM's LTW flywheel
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Old 11-01-2008, 10:49 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marko View Post
very impresive! how did you get to 238? cant be just a dasc... my car feels like it has 180hp at most.
please share...

3.2" SC pulley (pulley boys). 1997 Crank pulley (the big one). 39# injectors, M3 MAF sensor, traction control unit forward removed because of air restrictions, Cone filter in bucket behind headlight (don't ask about the bucket CIA....it was $2 and worth every penny except the WTF factor when someone sees it) Nick G stage 3 DME flash, bumped rev limit to 7,000, 100% Meth injection 10% at 7psi and 100% by 14psi (Orange jet on Snow meth system). Custom fabricated header with 3" flange and 3" to two 3" resonators then back into a 40 series Flowmaster (Exhaust is very heavy). Spec Billet 9# flywheel and stage 3 clutch. I have run 8% nitro methane with 92% pure methenol for a extra 25-30 hp in the boost spray only and recalled 16.7psi of boost on my now broken recall boost gauge. That's when I knocked off the big hp. I haven't did it since for fear of melting a piston or throwing a rod. Currently I can't get over 14psi boost after I changed the exhaust to 3" and installed a cheap digital boost gauge plus bored the OEM TB to dinan spec. Throwing position sensor and idle control valve error codes which started when I did the Dinan spec TB two weeks ago. Car runs fine with perfect idle
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Old 11-01-2008, 11:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
3.2" SC pulley (pulley boys). 1997 Crank pulley (the big one). 39# injectors, M3 MAF sensor, traction control unit forward removed because of air restrictions, Cone filter in bucket behind headlight (don't ask about the bucket CIA....it was $2 and worth every penny except the WTF factor when someone sees it) Nick G stage 3 DME flash, bumped rev limit to 7,000, 100% Meth injection 10% at 7psi and 100% by 14psi (Orange jet on Snow meth system). Custom fabricated header with 3" flange and 3" to two 3" resonators then back into a 40 series Flowmaster (Exhaust is very heavy). Spec Billet 9# flywheel and stage 3 clutch. I have run 8% nitro methane with 92% pure methenol for a extra 25-30 hp in the boost spray only and recalled 16.7psi of boost on my now broken recall boost gauge. That's when I knocked off the big hp. I haven't did it since for fear of melting a piston or throwing a rod. Currently I can't get over 14psi boost after I changed the exhaust to 3" and installed a cheap digital boost gauge plus bored the OEM TB to dinan spec. Throwing position sensor and idle control valve error codes which started when I did the Dinan spec TB two weeks ago. Car runs fine with perfect idle

u have videos of ur awsome ride?
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Old 11-02-2008, 01:24 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jean H.318TI View Post
u have videos of ur awsome ride?
Some old ones on youtube.
Here is a first gear pull and I missed second camera in left hand driving with left knee...taken last week http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7BzsehvlOU . One from the track Wednesday night but it's in the cup holder since I broke my tripod and sucks (not even worth posting). I've had a hell of a time getting video. Next track meet my brother-in-law is going to video.
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