» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | | | | | | 12-29-2008, 02:57 AM | #76 | Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 12 | Just fixed mine today. Thank you to this site for making this thread. My car no heater problems fixes: 1) Burped radiator, yes, air inside. 2) Tore apart glovebox/kick/and also removed stereo panel with HVAC dials. 3) RED CABLE = a) Was disconnected at knob (dial). Could access easy thru stereo hole. At the end of the cable is a small coiled section of the cable. Had to "pinch" down the coil to let it fit snug on the dial "knub" that it slides onto. In standard coil, it would just fall off, as "knub" was worn smaller. b) After messing with dial-end of the cable, I went after the other end (yellow lever). It was un-clipped fron the plenum box. Re-clipped, drilled a .025" hole right thru the yellow sheath clip, and threaded a PK screw right thru the yellow clip and the plenum box. Good. c) Re-attached the metal lever/cable clip to the yellow plenum arm. Cycled 50 or so times, no problems. Now = HEAT!!! Thank you!!! It was a very easy job, the hardest part is removing the 3 legged floor diffuser duct, which is a pain. Everything else was very simple. You should stick a self tapping screw into the yellow sheath stop no matter what when you are in there. | | | 01-05-2009, 12:59 AM | #77 | Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Filthiest city in the world, USA Posts: 60 | Any hints on getting the 3 legged floor diffuser duct back in? The back end of the next to the bowden cable gets caught on the lip of the air duct and I can not pull the diffuser duct any lower. Do I have to remove the entire dash? | | | 01-10-2009, 09:58 PM | #78 | Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 42 | PHL, good luck with that. It took forever to get it back in place but I didn't have to remove the dash. For anyone else that's having problems with the yellow tab: I fixed mine by securing the cable in place with thin wire. Sorry, the pic is fuzzy but hopefully that will help. [IMG] [/IMG] | | | 01-12-2009, 07:23 AM | #79 | Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Filthiest city in the world, USA Posts: 60 | Thanks, I did eventually get that air duct back in without removing the dash. Make sure you check your vent control knob before buttoning everything up. I didn't and could only turn the knob 180 degrees. But the heat must have softened up the plastic and the offending edge popped back into its rightful place. Check my album for the heater fix photos. | | | 01-14-2009, 12:06 AM | #80 | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Rocky Hill, CT Posts: 1,065 | I'm another posting up that the cable was disconnected. Drove up to northern VT , 8hr trip, with ZERO heat. The windows froze over INSIDE the car. NOW I HAVE HEAT AGAIN!!! THANKS GUYS. I had planned on pulling and flushing the heater core/valves. Can't believe it was something this simple __________________ 1995 318TI base. 95 2.5L from 325IS. S50 cams+pistons, e36 M3 front brakes. H&R race springs F+R. Turner Motorsport front sway bars, M3 control arms. M Roadster rear sway bar. Racing Dynamics strut brace. e36 325i 5spd. 3.25lsd from e28 535is. M Roadster short shifter. Conforti chip. | | | 01-26-2009, 12:19 AM | #81 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: central ct Posts: 503 | just did this... my switch/cable is functioning fine unfortunately car gets to near 12 oclock on the thermo when parked and heat is 'warm' but not hot... but once moving, it drops to 10oclock and the heat goes with it from warm to luke warm. i topped off the coolant (was about a cup low) and bled it out... no difference. as for the plastic hose- what a PITA. spent nearly an hour trying to get that back on. It worked best to get on when the selector was straight down (feet/vent blend). __________________ 2010 Genesis Coupe 2.0t track | 2000 Dakota Former 1995 318ti owner | | | 01-26-2009, 01:20 AM | #82 | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Rocky Hill, CT Posts: 1,065 | Hmm, sorry to hear it wasn't the easy cable. Next step I'd take is throwing a new thermostat in. As for the hose, am I the only one that had NO problem getting it back in? It took me literally 30 seconds. I just popped it right back. Can't be too gentile, it's not a fragile piece __________________ 1995 318TI base. 95 2.5L from 325IS. S50 cams+pistons, e36 M3 front brakes. H&R race springs F+R. Turner Motorsport front sway bars, M3 control arms. M Roadster rear sway bar. Racing Dynamics strut brace. e36 325i 5spd. 3.25lsd from e28 535is. M Roadster short shifter. Conforti chip. | | | 01-26-2009, 07:20 PM | #83 | Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Sunbury PA 17801 (The 570) Posts: 104 | I just bled my cooling system, b/c im having basically the same issue. "barely warm at idle, fairly warm at cruising speeds." Bleeding mine seemed to help, but i still want to take apart my dash to check things out in there. I removed all the screws in the glove box, save for the bottom left corner. I couldnt get at it with a screwdriver. I wasnt sure if i pressed down on the back side of the plastic "archs" (that keep the lid from dropping flat against the knee bolster) if it would allow me to flip the glove box lid all the way down so it would all be easy to get at or not. I tried a little bit, but i didnt want to get to forceful and end up breaking soemthing by doing soemthing i should have (maybe) never tried in the first place. So, my question is, is that the correct way to do it or not ? (pressing down on plastic arch's to get the lid to come out of its "fixed" open position and flip it down the rest of the way.) Also, what are all the plastic "buttons" for. Theres one between the door and the far right of the dash, and theres 2 on the bottom side. 1 is right by the screw in the lower left corner, and theres another on the right side opposite the left one. | | | 01-26-2009, 07:33 PM | #84 | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Rocky Hill, CT Posts: 1,065 | cris, maybe try a stubby screwdriver? I was able to get at the bottom screws with one. Also, those plugs sound like where I have screws? It sounds like that's just how the dash is held on. Good luck __________________ 1995 318TI base. 95 2.5L from 325IS. S50 cams+pistons, e36 M3 front brakes. H&R race springs F+R. Turner Motorsport front sway bars, M3 control arms. M Roadster rear sway bar. Racing Dynamics strut brace. e36 325i 5spd. 3.25lsd from e28 535is. M Roadster short shifter. Conforti chip. | | | 01-26-2009, 07:58 PM | #85 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: central ct Posts: 503 | go in by the radio on an angle. / i guess its the eaiest way to get that screw out. the buttons are just cosmetic screw caps to hide the screws. __________________ 2010 Genesis Coupe 2.0t track | 2000 Dakota Former 1995 318ti owner | | | 01-26-2009, 08:11 PM | #86 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: central ct Posts: 503 | go in by the radio on an angle. / i guess its the eaiest way to get that screw out. the buttons are just cosmetic screw caps to hide the screws. __________________ 2010 Genesis Coupe 2.0t track | 2000 Dakota Former 1995 318ti owner | | | 02-15-2009, 10:48 PM | #87 | Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Memphis, Tn Posts: 1,299 | Just fixed mine for good. I had gone back there twice before and just put the clip back in. But after a few turns it just keeps popping back out. So I went in there today for the third or fourth time to fix this thing for good. So I tried to drill a hole first but the drill bit couldn't reach. I tried to drill a screw in by hand but it broke part of the yellow clip. So with the clip in place I zip-tied the cable to the same metal bracket that redhotaudrey used. Worked the cable back and forth about 40 times and the clip never did come out of place. So problem solved and hopefully I will never have to go back there again. Going to sit back in the car today and enjoy the warmth. __________________ custom dual exhaust,M3 front and rear bumper, 10.4 inch roof mount drop screen, Viper alarm system, DSII's rims, M3 Vader Seats, M3 Mirrors, Carbon Fiber CAI, Smoked Corners, Side Markers, Leatherz armrests, black grilles 225k miles and still the Ti goes on | | | 02-15-2009, 11:44 PM | #88 | Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Sunbury PA 17801 (The 570) Posts: 104 | Quote: Originally Posted by briansol go in by the radio on an angle. / i guess its the eaiest way to get that screw out. the buttons are just cosmetic screw caps to hide the screws. | I forgot to repost my update. All I needed a screwdriver with a longer shank, then i was fine. My handle kept bumping it when i tried it before. I still havnt had a chance to pull the box off, but i pulled out the glove box and reinforcement bar as a trial run to see what it was all about (did that when i installed my alpine deck, to run the ipod cable ... ) __________________ WTB: 17 inch Milli Miglia MM-II's with proper fitment for a ti | | | 02-18-2009, 07:52 AM | #89 | Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: CORONA, Ca Posts: 123 | Good thing I searched this thread!!! I had the same problem! That silver clip came off, probably when i got the aux cables for my deck. Well took me like 30 mins to fix it. THanks to all the people that contributed to this thread!! __________________ | | | 11-13-2009, 06:59 AM | #90 | Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: 95602 Posts: 34 | YES!!I finally got heat in my car!! thanks for info guys! | | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |