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Old 01-30-2017, 12:37 AM   #31
jjay73
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Default Fitted new discs and pads , calipers ?????

Fitted new Brembo discs mintex pads but need nice calipers. Not wanting a big brake upgrade. Powder coat standards seems a bit feeble though ?? Sorry before pic
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Old 01-30-2017, 01:09 AM   #32
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I replaced the outer right window weatherstripping at the bottom of the window. The little tail that glues to the back edge of the door had split completely in two from the main strip.
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1999 M Roadster Dakar Yellow II, Dinan Stage 3 software, high flow throttle body, and CAI
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Old 02-16-2017, 08:09 PM   #33
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Added a dual tip stainless steel muffler that sounds great and looks great too..! Dyed the rear parcel shelf that was sun faded, looks new again. Also adding new M shift knob emblem
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Old 02-20-2017, 08:12 AM   #34
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Changed the oil and plugs. Then I cleaned the engine bay a bit.
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Old 03-19-2017, 04:09 AM   #35
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I removed rust from the cali top area and parts then painted everything. https://flic.kr/p/SucqhC



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Old 03-19-2017, 06:08 AM   #36
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Default New brakes at last

I found a new E36 328i vented rotor, calipers with new pads and all assembled on hub with new bearings for $100. (US $70 ish) for both sides... Lucky!!!!! So went at my hub today. Both sides took 3 hours in total (have yet to bleed 'em) but without much trouble the old hub was removed and the new bolted in place. An easy conversion. I have a bit to do this week. New brake fluid, A set of Nexen SUR4's for the 17s and a track day next Saturday to look forward to!
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Old 03-19-2017, 03:36 PM   #37
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New stock rotors and Akebono ceramic pads. I was going to go vented rotors, calipers, and carriers - my old front rotors were warped so that the steering wheel shuddered when braking hard. But I found Brembo solid rotors on Amazon's warehouse deals for $10 each, so I went with those. Brakes straight and smooth now.
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1992 325iC M Technic appearance Diamantschwarz 5 spd. heated seats
1993 325iC Schwarz II 5 spd. SOLD
1997 318ti Active Boston Gruen, Sandgrau w/M Technic interior swap Millpoint Gray
1999 M Roadster Dakar Yellow II, Dinan Stage 3 software, high flow throttle body, and CAI
2001 Z3 3.0i Coupe Black Sapphire Metallic
BMW CCA 369408
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Old 03-28-2017, 06:48 PM   #38
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Did an overdue oil change this past weekend. Also removed the intake "baffle" from the airbox. I also tried to do a compression check (FAIL) and to look inside the bore where it ate a plug (FAIL).

I have three compression testers and they all suck. To be fair, they are at least 20 years old; probably closer to 60. Third generation tools sometimes have disadvantages...

The bore scope is super cool! But the end mirror does not fit in the sparkplug hole... D'oh!

Lots of fun stuff stuck to my (BimmerBum supplied) magnetic drain plug. If you don't have one, get one now!!!
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:17 AM   #39
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Default What did you do to your car today? v.2016

Picked up a pair of Z3 racks for each of two TIs. Also a 9 of 10 Evo Steering wheel.




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1998 318ti Sport - "Max" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior, S52
1997 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Schwartz II/Schwartz sport interior
1995 318ti Active - "Blanca" Alpineweib III/Schwartz leather interior

Other Current Bimmers: 2000 2.3L Z3 / 1997 1.9L Z3 / 1991 318ic / 1999 540it

1997 318ti Sport - "Huera" - RIP
1995 318ti Active - RIP
1995 318ti Sport - "Tiny" Sold
1994 325i Sedan - "Jade" - Sold
1985 635csi sold
1984 533i "Max" Sold
1984 318i sold

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Old 04-21-2017, 05:20 AM   #40
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I got home after dark tonight and went to get stuff out of the hatch. When I pushed the button to open the hatch, the whole button caved in and disappeared into the hatch! Geez. So I got a flashlight and proceeded to remove the hatch door lining, which I'd never done before. Two push pin plastic rivets that both rivets were broken off at the nub. I had to destroy them. Then two screws with the cover caps that have to be destroyed to get off the screw head. Then I popped all the clips loose around the edges. Did I mention it was dark out? Then I removed the liner and all this fallen apart, shriveled, dried out foam stuff rained down on me. The foam insulation was in pieces no bigger than 3 inches. Nasty.

I shined the light up on the latch mechanism and the push button is just hanging there, not a screw in sight. But it is wrapped up in friction tape. Someone had actually taped it in place instead of replacing the screws! OMG! So many people have no business owning a BMW!

I got a magnet out and fished around in the hatch door and...sure enough I found one of the two screws. Couldn't find the other one. Said f--- it, and got an M6 screw and washer from my work bench. Different length but it worked. While putting the liner back in place, one of the plastic clips fell off and went in the grass. It took me awhile to find it. I did mention it was dark out, right?

Found two more rivets that worked and finally buttoned everything back up sans the foam insulation. Button works better than ever. It even sticks out a little further, making it easier to push in. Didn't even realize it wasn't installed correctly. It is now...
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1992 325iC M Technic appearance Diamantschwarz 5 spd. heated seats
1993 325iC Schwarz II 5 spd. SOLD
1997 318ti Active Boston Gruen, Sandgrau w/M Technic interior swap Millpoint Gray
1999 M Roadster Dakar Yellow II, Dinan Stage 3 software, high flow throttle body, and CAI
2001 Z3 3.0i Coupe Black Sapphire Metallic
BMW CCA 369408

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Old 04-21-2017, 03:43 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e30topdown View Post
I got home after dark tonight and went to get stuff out of the hatch. When I pushed the button to open the hatch, the whole button caved in and disappeared into the hatch! Geez. So I got a flashlight and proceeded to remove the hatch door lining, which I'd never done before. Two push pin plastic rivets that both rivets were broken off at the nub. I had to destroy them. Then two screws with the cover caps that have to be destroyed to get off the screw head. Then I popped all the clips loose around the edges. Did I mention it was dark out? Then I removed the liner and all this fallen apart, shriveled, dried out foam stuff rained down on me. The foam insulation was in pieces no bigger than 3 inches. Nasty.

I shined the light up on the latch mechanism and the push button is just hanging there, not a screw in sight. But it is wrapped up in friction tape. Someone had actually taped it in place instead of replacing the screws! OMG! So many people have no business owning a BMW!

I got a magnet out and fished around in the hatch door and...sure enough I found one of the two screws. Couldn't find the other one. Said f--- it, and got an M6 screw and washer from my work bench. Different length but it worked. While putting the liner back in place, one of the plastic clips fell off and went in the grass. It took me awhile to find it. I did mention it was dark out, right?

Found two more rivets that worked and finally buttoned everything back up sans the foam insulation. Button works better than ever. It even sticks out a little further, making it easier to push in. Didn't even realize it wasn't installed correctly. It is now...

Sounds like a typical day I try to get anything done on my car...
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:31 AM   #42
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So today I was determined to figure out why my driver's door lock wasn't working. Thursday when I got home from work, when I locked the door with my key, there was a pop inside the door and the key would only turn to the right (lock). Also the key slot was tilted toward one o'clock instead of 12. The door couldn't be opened from the outside or inside.
So today I finally got the door opened using the inside handle by wiggling and jiggling and using the trunk lock to activate all the door locks. I then removed the door card and removed the window. I examined the lock cylinder and why it couldn't be turned counterclockwise. A spring that wrapped around the cylinder had two little ears below the cylinder. They were keeping the cylinder from turning counterclockwise. I pushed the ear towards the door with a screwdriver and managed to turn the cylinder past it. Now the key slot was aligned correctly. And when I tested the lock it worked again!
I also realigned the front window channel, taking some "wrinkles" out of the edges that periodically caused the front regulator arm to pop loose from the clip. I checked it with the door slam test and then buttoned everything back up.
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1992 325iC M Technic appearance Diamantschwarz 5 spd. heated seats
1993 325iC Schwarz II 5 spd. SOLD
1997 318ti Active Boston Gruen, Sandgrau w/M Technic interior swap Millpoint Gray
1999 M Roadster Dakar Yellow II, Dinan Stage 3 software, high flow throttle body, and CAI
2001 Z3 3.0i Coupe Black Sapphire Metallic
BMW CCA 369408
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Old 05-12-2017, 06:08 PM   #43
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I finally got around to replacing the crank position sensor in my ti.
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:29 AM   #44
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I put in Euro non-projector glass headlights.

Man are these nice!

Opened them up, I was able to clean everything well. The automatic aimed is all busted up but they take the same bulbs as stock so no wiring to deal with. They are also slightly bigger around- I never realized they before.

Here's some pics: first is glass on the left (car right) plastic on the right (car left). Second is all buttoned up.
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Old 06-09-2017, 06:01 AM   #45
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Sunroof stopped working yesterday. However, it still worked when using the auto-close feature by holding the key in the door, so I knew the motor was fine. Next up, the switch. It still illuminated with the headlights, so it was getting power. But it just wasn't responding to input. I planned on going to Pick N Pull today, but decided to check the fuses just in case. Bam, fuse 43.

I should have checked that first, but disregarded it because it still worked with the auto-close. Guess the switch itself is on a different circuit! I'm glad it ended up being so simple.
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