Pictures of drops

[Mr.Squeelerz]

I didn't know eibach had sportlines for the Ti.

[318ti_pt]

Originally Posted by Maverix

You could always run 14" rims with small tires

Hahah very funny.. If i were in US i would run 17" but here the law is tight.. and we are talking about drops here so wake up!!

[marko]

as pauly said, bav auto.. but do not get them. they suck, & I can say that from almost 5 years experience of driving on them.
they are linear, and NOT progressive. they trully SUCK & have rattled the $hit out of my car.

first chance I get, I'm getting coils...

if you dont want coils, get H&Rs... I hear they are much better.
also, whichever you get, make sure they are progressive rate springs!

Originally Posted by noga

marko are you on H&R race's too?

[briansol]

rd sport / bilsteins
non-staggered contours 235/40 fronts 235/45 rears





IMO,
rear is a little too low (or, front needs to be a hair lower to match)
rear springs are WAY too soft.

recommend another kit for anything other than street use

[96cali]

Can evryone chime in and state if they have corrected camber issues since lowering, how they did it (or not) and subsequent tire wear/alignment issues?

I am seriously considering adding camber adj to the rear before I lower mine.

[cooljess76]

Originally Posted by 96cali

Can evryone chime in and state if they have corrected camber issues since lowering, how they did it (or not) and subsequent tire wear/alignment issues?

I am seriously considering adding camber adj to the rear before I lower mine.

Phil, I was running H&R race Z3 fitment on stock shocks/struts prior to my motor swap. My new setup is H&R race Z3 rears and H&R race M3 fronts on Bilstein sports. Though I haven't ran the new setup yet, I'll say that an H&R race drop will camber out the rears about 2 degrees. I would go through a set of rear tires about every 10k miles due to inner wear. I found that if I swapped rears to fronts every oil change and dismount tires/swap left to right after about 10k miles, I could stretch them out for about 20k miles, but by the end of that I was basically rolling treadless It's pretty ridiculous. Before I put my car back on the road, I'm definitely getting the Ireland Engineering weld-in kit for the rear. Front camber really wasn't an issue for me, it was the rear that ate the tires.

BTW, other issues were minor bump steer which may have been due to worn tie rods. Slight steering wheel misalignment, sat a little to the left after lowering. Probably could have been corrected. My car would squat on hard takeoff, which I relate to running stock shocks/struts. Basically, the rear would squat about 2 inches and the front would come up about an inch or two.

This time around, I should be good to go since everything will be corrected. New bushings, ball joints, tie rods, shocks/struts and of course the IE weld-in kit as well as steering adjustment.

[Philly]

H&R sport and billys...
needs more lower... 200lbs worth of sandbags should do it

more pics in gallery.

[Rich]

Eibach Sportline springs and Koni Yellow shocks.

For me perfect as I don't get stuck on speed bumps. I used to run AVO's all round however they were too low.

[briansol]

Originally Posted by 96cali

Can evryone chime in and state if they have corrected camber issues since lowering, how they did it (or not) and subsequent tire wear/alignment issues?

I am seriously considering adding camber adj to the rear before I lower mine.

there is a good bit of negative camber. I'll take the handling effect over tire wear any day. Thus, i don't nor will ever use a camber kit. It defeats the purpose IMO. Inside wear is minimal at best.... i'll probably need tires 3-4 months sooner than if i was stock height.

[yoda]

Check out my sig.... BavAuto Springs on Stock Sport Shocks...

[hurley9]

Originally Posted by yoda

Check out my sig.... BavAuto Springs on Stock Sport Shocks...

wait?!
you can use stock sport shocks with lowering springs???
i know this might be a stupid question, but how much of a difference in lowering is there between stock sport springs and the BavAuto springs?

[tiFreak]

you're not supposed to because it wears the shocks out faster, plus if you read Jess' post above he said it made his car squat on take-off

but yes, you can run stock shocks on lowering springs

[hurley9]

ahh!
i got ya.. i didnt know he was saying that was because his stock shocks...

[rmorales015]

Platanos what size tires are u on???

[Ralliart10]

Originally Posted by cooljess76

Phil, I was running H&R race Z3 fitment on stock shocks/struts prior to my motor swap. My new setup is H&R race Z3 rears and H&R race M3 fronts on Bilstein sports. Though I haven't ran the new setup yet, I'll say that an H&R race drop will camber out the rears about 2 degrees. I would go through a set of rear tires about every 10k miles due to inner wear. I found that if I swapped rears to fronts every oil change and dismount tires/swap left to right after about 10k miles, I could stretch them out for about 20k miles, but by the end of that I was basically rolling treadless It's pretty ridiculous. Before I put my car back on the road, I'm definitely getting the Ireland Engineering weld-in kit for the rear. Front camber really wasn't an issue for me, it was the rear that ate the tires.

BTW, other issues were minor bump steer which may have been due to worn tie rods. Slight steering wheel misalignment, sat a little to the left after lowering. Probably could have been corrected. My car would squat on hard takeoff, which I relate to running stock shocks/struts. Basically, the rear would squat about 2 inches and the front would come up about an inch or two.

This time around, I should be good to go since everything will be corrected. New bushings, ball joints, tie rods, shocks/struts and of course the IE weld-in kit as well as steering adjustment.

Do the H&R sport camber out that back also ?