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Old 09-16-1999, 03:39 AM   #1
1996 328ti
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Parts necessary for replacing the stock shift lever to the shorter 1.9 Z3 lever.

25 11 1 434 148 Shift Lever (Z3 1.9)
25 11 1 220 600 Suspension (nylon cup)
25 11 1 220 379 Circlip
25 11 1 220 439 Spacer Ring (2)

US List price $64.17 as of 7/98
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Old 06-08-2003, 01:36 AM   #2
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This is a great mod! More bang for the buck than any other I can think of...
Unfortunately, haven't bought a new z3 lever for the ti yet, and don't have the heart to rip my old one out of the e30.

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Old 01-26-2004, 01:30 AM   #3
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Just ordered my Kit. Looking forward to it coming in the mail and attemptiing the install. There are a variety of goodies on the net (thank goodness!), that outline the install, so I feel pretty secure.

Yet, this will be the first truly mechanical alteration on my (up till now), only cosmetically modified car, so Of course I'm a little apprehensive.

I just wanted to inquire, given the resources already available, that if you guys had any additional hints that you'd like to pass on to someone that is going to do the Z3 1.9 install...

Safety: doing the ramps, with two jack stands and (if space permits, hydraulic Jack under crossmember), Check.

(sidenote, are my jack stands (iin the mail) going to need modification to support my car?)

Mental preparation for the "B Clips", check... but any further hints/ suggestions?

What type of lube do I want to grease up the ball joint with?

Any combination of hints will be better than none! Thanks again!

Writeb
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Old 01-27-2004, 01:11 AM   #4
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I would order the 'bitch' clip as well. It will most likely be destroyed during removal, and if not, will be tweaked to the point that you should not WANT to re-use it. Perhaps you can get the lever out wothout removing the support? Maybe.

I have the P/N somewhere- just not handy. Steve maybe??

I also think a large set of needle-nose or snap-ring pliers are required to get the shifter support bearing out of the support. I think I used a set of needle nose pliers that are bent 90 degrees. I don't remember now it's been a while...
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Old 01-27-2004, 04:16 PM   #5
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Would anybody happen to have the P/N for those clips by anychance??

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Old 02-04-2004, 11:53 PM   #6
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Hey,

I went by my local dealership today to price out the Z3 shift lever. The guy in the parts department asked if I was going to use it as a short shifter. I said Yes and he priced it out for me. It was like $66.68. I am not sure if that is just the lever or a Kit.

What is at the top of the page is all I need correct?
Or is there anything else recommended?
How long does this normal take to install?
Also does the price I got sound like everything I need or just the Z3 lever?


Thanks,
Scotty
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Old 02-05-2004, 06:07 AM   #7
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you should be able to get one a lot cheaper than that off ebay. I think I spent like $30 plus shipping on the one that I have. Doesn't come with any instructions but it is easy to do. Just look at a Chiltons Manual and they have the info for you.
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Old 02-05-2004, 06:52 AM   #8
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Scotty, from what I understand You just need those items. You will need to buy some grease to grease up the shift pivot ball in the white nylon cup, (I'd be interested in hearing what kind of lube is good for the job, actually...), and possibly the pivot pin, affectionately known as the "bitch clip". (BMW part # 25 11 1 221 849). As improper/usual technique will break the pin. I learned of a cool way to remove it with a flathead screwdriver. Ron Stygar's technique looks the most feasible.

Basically;
You pull up the knob off, shift boot off, crawl underneath the car, unclip the circlip take off washers, put 2x4 in shifter gate to elininate play, as you struggle with the B-Clip and pull it out, then you are able to pull the shift lever out.

I'm fuzzy on that last step though, and I will have to re-read actually, but you need the help of a tool, either two screwdrivers to somehow twist the shaft to be able to pull the shift lever out of the assembly. I would appreciate some type of hint on this one....

After that, everything is just in reverse, lube, install, replace washers, clips, etc., test, and enjoy. I have my little "kit" looking at me right now. Soon as the ramps and jacks arrive, I'll know first hand this weekend!

Of course perhaps someone with *actual* first hand knowledge will weigh in and correct 99% of my statements. But I did sleep at a Howard Johnsons last night.......

Good Luck.

Writeb
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Old 02-05-2004, 07:10 PM   #9
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You may actually be able to remove the shift lever without removing the support (with the bitch clip).

The plastic bearing needs to be rotated 1/4 turn to remove, then the lever will come up the top. It has a square area in it to allow the bottom of the shifter to pass through. I think I used needle-nose pliers with a 90 degree bend in them to engage the slots and turn the bearing. There is a tool available, or one could be made easily enough from a length of tubing and a mill.

If you do need to remove the support, just replace the clip. It's like $2.00 or something, and it's better to replace, than to regret.

Use a high-pressure grease to lube the bearing. Also a sticky, water rejecting grease would be best. Try the local marine supply, or MSC for some Lubriplate brand stuff. It should be compatible with plastics- some are not.
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Old 02-23-2004, 02:22 AM   #10
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Well, finally did the short shift mod. To quote my friend "It was hella easy!"

In fact, much against the grain of common sense, I did the mod solo. If you had the tools set out and all neccessary materials, I'd say the mod total took about 45-50 minutes, (fretting over ramp approach and stalling for the courage to slip under the car included).

It doesn't really hit you how dangerous this is until you are about to slip underneath the car. Really scary. Personally, I used ramps, with jack stands, chocked the wheels and also had the jack snugly fitted against the right support for good measure. After shaking the car a bit to make sure it was stable did I focus on getting underneath the car.

Darned JC Whitney cancelled my creeper order, so I had to do the scootch shuffle underneath the car. It was difficult to get your hand over the drive shaft to get to the circlip.

NOTE: You do NOT have to fool around with the "bitch clip". I repeat, you do not have to remove the "bitch clip" to add the 1.9 lever.

You just release the circlip, take the washer off, push the linkage bar out of the bottom of the shifter, grab the washer off the other side of the linkage bar, get from under the car. The shifter is now flopping around and unconnected. inside the car I took two screw drivers, held them crossed for leverage and turned the nylon cup clockwise. It turned easily!! I didn't believe that was it until I just pulled the bad boy right up and out! I used WHITE LITHIUM GREASE inside of the new Nylon cup, threw a little on the shifter ball and popped it into the cup. Squeezed a little bit of grease into the hole that the linkage will go through as well. Dropped the lever + cup back into the assembly, and used screwdrivers to turn the cup CCW to lock it. Pulled up on it to make sure it was locked. Back underneath the car, preliminarily connected linkage without clips or washers, to try the shifting action. (this was actually the most challenging part. that damn drive shaft is inconvenient!!!). Back into car, tested shifting... butter!

Grabbed new circlip and washers, popped out linkage, put washer on (rounded sides towards outside of car) connected linkage, washer on other side, and put circlip on. (Putting circlip on and off can possibly be the hardest task depending on your own circumstance).

rubber shift boot back on, sound dampener, New leather shift boot.. (wha``you didn't get one??) and shifter knob. I put away all tools, and stored away old shift lever and circlip and washers, cleaned up, lowered from jacks and backed off of ramps. And bobs ya uncle.

Quick drive around the neighborhood invoked the maniacal grin from me, so I look forward to "snick snicking" my way through the gear box on the 101 tonight. The throw is a bit shorter, that combined with a shorter shift knob definitely makes a noticable difference. The throw seems most noticably shorter with the upper level gears (R,1,3,5).

I drive a 1998 ti, and I didn't have to bend the bar or anything like that. This isn't meant to be a how to, although it seems like it turned into that. Do this mod at your own risk, for for goodness sakes, use 2 backups if you are going to crawl underneath your car!!!

This easy mod was great! and zero's out my failure to permanently fix my window with regulator arm woes. Looking forward to "fogging" the airbox next week!

Writeb
-------------------
1998 318ti Artic Silver
Z3 1.9 16' wheels & Short Shifter w leather shift boot, Euro Ellipsoids w/ Angel Eyes, ///M side panels, Euro clear all around, M3 power heated mirrors, Doubled Brake Lights, Arm Rest, Chrome button surrounds, & Accents.
---------
Coming soon: Fogged Airbox, New Rotor and Pad install Front & Rear, Aluminum pedal kit, Express close sunroof, fog light install.
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Old 10-12-2004, 08:23 PM   #11
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Default My turn to do the upgrade

I have the same car, a 1998 318ti. Please detail the "EXACT" replacement parts I need to do the job. I called the dealer about the M3 shifter, and he said it wouldn't work, so I want the exact parts to avoid confusion. The Z3 short shift kit seems to be a direct swap, with no bending, is that correct? My brother has a lift in his 3 car garage.....too many cars, so I can just drive it onto the lift and press the button. If prepping the car is a big issue, then I am halfway there. On the other hand, is the M3 swap just as easy and a shorter throw? If the Z3 is the easiest and best, then just please detail the Z3 parts.

Thanks
Eric


Quote:
Originally Posted by writeb
Well, finally did the short shift mod. To quote my friend "It was hella easy!"

In fact, much against the grain of common sense, I did the mod solo. If you had the tools set out and all neccessary materials, I'd say the mod total took about 45-50 minutes, (fretting over ramp approach and stalling for the courage to slip under the car included).

It doesn't really hit you how dangerous this is until you are about to slip underneath the car. Really scary. Personally, I used ramps, with jack stands, chocked the wheels and also had the jack snugly fitted against the right support for good measure. After shaking the car a bit to make sure it was stable did I focus on getting underneath the car.

Darned JC Whitney cancelled my creeper order, so I had to do the scootch shuffle underneath the car. It was difficult to get your hand over the drive shaft to get to the circlip.

NOTE: You do NOT have to fool around with the "bitch clip". I repeat, you do not have to remove the "bitch clip" to add the 1.9 lever.

You just release the circlip, take the washer off, push the linkage bar out of the bottom of the shifter, grab the washer off the other side of the linkage bar, get from under the car. The shifter is now flopping around and unconnected. inside the car I took two screw drivers, held them crossed for leverage and turned the nylon cup clockwise. It turned easily!! I didn't believe that was it until I just pulled the bad boy right up and out! I used WHITE LITHIUM GREASE inside of the new Nylon cup, threw a little on the shifter ball and popped it into the cup. Squeezed a little bit of grease into the hole that the linkage will go through as well. Dropped the lever + cup back into the assembly, and used screwdrivers to turn the cup CCW to lock it. Pulled up on it to make sure it was locked. Back underneath the car, preliminarily connected linkage without clips or washers, to try the shifting action. (this was actually the most challenging part. that damn drive shaft is inconvenient!!!). Back into car, tested shifting... butter!

Grabbed new circlip and washers, popped out linkage, put washer on (rounded sides towards outside of car) connected linkage, washer on other side, and put circlip on. (Putting circlip on and off can possibly be the hardest task depending on your own circumstance).

rubber shift boot back on, sound dampener, New leather shift boot.. (wha``you didn't get one??) and shifter knob. I put away all tools, and stored away old shift lever and circlip and washers, cleaned up, lowered from jacks and backed off of ramps. And bobs ya uncle.

Quick drive around the neighborhood invoked the maniacal grin from me, so I look forward to "snick snicking" my way through the gear box on the 101 tonight. The throw is a bit shorter, that combined with a shorter shift knob definitely makes a noticable difference. The throw seems most noticably shorter with the upper level gears (R,1,3,5).

I drive a 1998 ti, and I didn't have to bend the bar or anything like that. This isn't meant to be a how to, although it seems like it turned into that. Do this mod at your own risk, for for goodness sakes, use 2 backups if you are going to crawl underneath your car!!!

This easy mod was great! and zero's out my failure to permanently fix my window with regulator arm woes. Looking forward to "fogging" the airbox next week!

Writeb
-------------------
1998 318ti Artic Silver
Z3 1.9 16' wheels & Short Shifter w leather shift boot, Euro Ellipsoids w/ Angel Eyes, ///M side panels, Euro clear all around, M3 power heated mirrors, Doubled Brake Lights, Arm Rest, Chrome button surrounds, & Accents.
---------
Coming soon: Fogged Airbox, New Rotor and Pad install Front & Rear, Aluminum pedal kit, Express close sunroof, fog light install.
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OEM Armrest • Blaupunkt Heidelberg CD50 CD Player/Compact Drive MP3 Player • Diamond Audio 5.25" rear speakers • Navman ICN 530 GPS • BMWALARM.COM (with comfort settings) after market alarm system • Magnecor 8.5mm wires • M-Z3 Shifter/Momo Knob • Burlwood Dashboard • Stromung Exhaust • X-brace • Racing Dynamics Front Strut Bar • Carbonio C.A.I. • 17" Rial Rims • Vader Seats/Heated/Lumbar Support • M-tech Steering Wheel/Front Sway Bar/Front & Rear Bumper • Depos/w 6500K Angel Eyes/6000K HIDs • Clear Corners • M3 Mirrors • UUC Light Weight Flywheel/M5 Clutch/M3 Clutch Slave • E28 3.46 LSD/Mcoupe Cover/E30 Flanges & Halfshafts • UUC S.S. Brake/Clutch Lines • Hartge Roof Spoiler • BavAuto Springs• Bilstein Sport Struts/Shocks • E46 M3 Rear Shock Mounts • SPC Front Camber Kit • Reiger Hatch Spoiler • BavAuto Rear Camber Kit • Dinan Stage II Software • Turner Rear Sway Bar Reinforcements • BMW E46 Auto dimming mirror with Clown Nose alarm • Engine Compartment Light • Heated Wiper Fluid Retrofit • OEM Fire Extinguisher • Da'lan Trailer Hitch • Rear Sun Shade • OEM Fog Light Retrofit • H & R MZ3 Rear Sway Bar/ UUC Adjustable End Links • Cruise Control Retrofit • On Board Computer Retrofit • M3 twistie style side skirts • Carbon Fiber Hood
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Old 10-13-2004, 12:45 AM   #12
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The parts I used on my 98 ti are in the first post of his thread.
You can go with Z3 lever from a 1.9 or a M Roadster.
The dealer is correct, I don't think an M3 lever will work.
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Old 10-13-2004, 02:39 PM   #13
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Default M3 shifter

There is a guy in another thread named" M3 shifter in 318Ti", who said he put an M3 shifter in his 318ti. If that is true, then why did you say it won't fit. This whole M3 verses Z3 shifter thing is confusing. Which one gives shorter throw, and which one if either needs to be bent to properly fit?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven Schlossman
The parts I used on my 98 ti are in the first post of his thread.
You can go with Z3 lever from a 1.9 or a M Roadster.
The dealer is correct, I don't think an M3 lever will work.
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OEM Armrest • Blaupunkt Heidelberg CD50 CD Player/Compact Drive MP3 Player • Diamond Audio 5.25" rear speakers • Navman ICN 530 GPS • BMWALARM.COM (with comfort settings) after market alarm system • Magnecor 8.5mm wires • M-Z3 Shifter/Momo Knob • Burlwood Dashboard • Stromung Exhaust • X-brace • Racing Dynamics Front Strut Bar • Carbonio C.A.I. • 17" Rial Rims • Vader Seats/Heated/Lumbar Support • M-tech Steering Wheel/Front Sway Bar/Front & Rear Bumper • Depos/w 6500K Angel Eyes/6000K HIDs • Clear Corners • M3 Mirrors • UUC Light Weight Flywheel/M5 Clutch/M3 Clutch Slave • E28 3.46 LSD/Mcoupe Cover/E30 Flanges & Halfshafts • UUC S.S. Brake/Clutch Lines • Hartge Roof Spoiler • BavAuto Springs• Bilstein Sport Struts/Shocks • E46 M3 Rear Shock Mounts • SPC Front Camber Kit • Reiger Hatch Spoiler • BavAuto Rear Camber Kit • Dinan Stage II Software • Turner Rear Sway Bar Reinforcements • BMW E46 Auto dimming mirror with Clown Nose alarm • Engine Compartment Light • Heated Wiper Fluid Retrofit • OEM Fire Extinguisher • Da'lan Trailer Hitch • Rear Sun Shade • OEM Fog Light Retrofit • H & R MZ3 Rear Sway Bar/ UUC Adjustable End Links • Cruise Control Retrofit • On Board Computer Retrofit • M3 twistie style side skirts • Carbon Fiber Hood
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Old 10-13-2004, 03:50 PM   #14
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I had a M3 shifter installed. According to BMW parts, this one fits a tad better than the Z3 shifter and give about a 4% greater reduction in shift throw.

The results are great. I love the shifter and its action. A bit stiff when installed but it frees up quickly.

Recommend it.
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Old 10-13-2004, 04:26 PM   #15
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Default Parts list for M3 shifter

What are the exact part #'s for all the parts needed to do this mod?
Why is the site administrator saying this won't fit?


Quote:
Originally Posted by brucelee
I had a M3 shifter installed. According to BMW parts, this one fits a tad better than the Z3 shifter and give about a 4% greater reduction in shift throw.

The results are great. I love the shifter and its action. A bit stiff when installed but it frees up quickly.

Recommend it.
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1998 (July) 318ti, 5-spd
OEM Armrest • Blaupunkt Heidelberg CD50 CD Player/Compact Drive MP3 Player • Diamond Audio 5.25" rear speakers • Navman ICN 530 GPS • BMWALARM.COM (with comfort settings) after market alarm system • Magnecor 8.5mm wires • M-Z3 Shifter/Momo Knob • Burlwood Dashboard • Stromung Exhaust • X-brace • Racing Dynamics Front Strut Bar • Carbonio C.A.I. • 17" Rial Rims • Vader Seats/Heated/Lumbar Support • M-tech Steering Wheel/Front Sway Bar/Front & Rear Bumper • Depos/w 6500K Angel Eyes/6000K HIDs • Clear Corners • M3 Mirrors • UUC Light Weight Flywheel/M5 Clutch/M3 Clutch Slave • E28 3.46 LSD/Mcoupe Cover/E30 Flanges & Halfshafts • UUC S.S. Brake/Clutch Lines • Hartge Roof Spoiler • BavAuto Springs• Bilstein Sport Struts/Shocks • E46 M3 Rear Shock Mounts • SPC Front Camber Kit • Reiger Hatch Spoiler • BavAuto Rear Camber Kit • Dinan Stage II Software • Turner Rear Sway Bar Reinforcements • BMW E46 Auto dimming mirror with Clown Nose alarm • Engine Compartment Light • Heated Wiper Fluid Retrofit • OEM Fire Extinguisher • Da'lan Trailer Hitch • Rear Sun Shade • OEM Fog Light Retrofit • H & R MZ3 Rear Sway Bar/ UUC Adjustable End Links • Cruise Control Retrofit • On Board Computer Retrofit • M3 twistie style side skirts • Carbon Fiber Hood
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