» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | 1999 M3 Swap 09-07-2023 10:10 PM 05-02-2024 08:18 PM 6 Replies, 402,457 Views | | | | | 05-04-2013, 06:05 PM | #1 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 179 | Fuse 37 keeps blowing. Wtf? Hey all. I just replaced my headlight switch to fix a problem with my instrument lighting, passenger taillight, and tag light not turning on (see here for original thread: http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38207 ). I now have a problem with a fuse that keeps blowing (FUSE #37). Ive blown 3 fuses so far in the past 30minutes. The headlight switch is working since my headlights still turn on and a few of the interior lights+drivers taillight. I am going to mess around with it a bit more and do some more research. If anyone has a suggestion or thoughts about what might be the issue, I'm all ears. I'm taking it to the shop in 2 days if I can't get this sorted. Tired of messing with this, dare I say it, POS. | | | 05-04-2013, 08:13 PM | #2 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Globally Posts: 1,162 | Rust in the plate light area? Maybe you have a short to ground on the plate lights. | | | 05-05-2013, 01:04 PM | #3 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 179 | Thanks for the response. I checked the wires/harnesses back in the trunk/taillight area and nothing seems out of place. I bought the headlight switch for nothing considering that the issue is still not resolved. Damn this is so weird. | | | 05-06-2013, 10:43 PM | #4 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Globally Posts: 1,162 | I'll look at schematics. | | | 05-15-2013, 06:30 PM | #5 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 179 | I got it from the shop a few days ago and turns out it was a few naked wires leading from my headlights where I forgot to tape off my halos/highs(both of which I don't use/use HID's instead). I guess overtime they moved their position out of the housings(DEPOS) and started blowing fuses when they were hitting something metal. Fixing this made everything on FUSE #37 work since it's no longer blowing that fuse. So all in all. Purchased a headlight switch that I don't need. Two idiot mistakes (there's probably more). | | | 07-23-2013, 10:05 AM | #6 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 110 | So I've got the same issue going on. No instrument lights, right side parking lights, license plate lights. I did everything you have done. New headlight switch, new hazard relay. I've isolated everything I can think of and find. Fuse is still blowing. I think I've gone through at least a good 25 10a fuses. I read your post about your halos, so i tried that too and i found no bad wiring in my depos/halos. Issues that i have previously with car that i don't think are related but now im trying/thinking of anything. --> My ASC light has been coming on intermittently. I turn the car off and back to to reset the light and all is good, ASC still functions properly. --> Center console light has getting dimmer over time. I've undone the fuse box to take a look at the wire loom underneath and all looks fine as does the wires under the dash and going through the fire. I have also isolated my alarm module (as it is tied in with my halos) I don't know what else to do and im afraid this might be a job for the pros. =( Any enlightenment you can provide? | | | 07-23-2013, 11:18 AM | #7 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 179 | Try this. Replace the fuse and don't even turn the car on, and just try to turn on the headlights w/o the key even in. If it still pops then you probably have a short/some wire somewhere that is hitting something it's not supposed to. | | | 07-23-2013, 11:53 AM | #8 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 110 | W/o the key even in the switch will not have any power. Nothing will happen. Or do you mean go to accessories with key and try the switch? | | | 07-23-2013, 01:06 PM | #9 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 179 | It will still get power. The headlights or parking lights just wont come on. The instrument gauges, HVAC, and other random electrical stuff should come on. I had my car completely off w/ the taillight switches pulled off and it was still popping fuses left and right. I think yours will pop still since it seems to be the same **** I went through. All you can really do from what I understand is to trace all stuff that corresponds to that fuse#. Which "aint nobody got time for that". Are there any other fuses dead/popping or is the the same fuses that I went through in the OP? | | | 07-23-2013, 01:33 PM | #10 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 110 | I will give it another go in a few hours. I need to get some shut eye and pick up more 10a fuses. | | | 08-11-2013, 03:23 PM | #11 | Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 56 | So whay was the put come as im also having trouble with pasenger front side lights and back side lights and also passenger side rear number plate light __________________ 1994 316 loon R.I.P 1998 318is loon R.I.P 2000 318ti sport | | | 08-12-2013, 12:13 AM | #12 | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 110 | Quote: Originally Posted by jafoolii So whay was the put come as im also having trouble with pasenger front side lights and back side lights and also passenger side rear number plate light | The first pic is from my chilton manual, if you don't have one I would pick one up, they can be of great help sometime. Anyways the first pic is a little easier to look at. For me I had a pinched wire in the loom. It was the wire coming from the left side right tail light circuit, just followed it back till I found it fixed it and re-wrapped the wires all the way back. I've read up on this being a big issue for guys with coupes and sedans as this wire loom goes through the trunk and is subject to a lot of movement. I'm guessing something similar happens with our hatches. Hopefully this might be your problem. it was the last thing for me after I isolated EVERYTHING else that could possibly be a problem. Good luck!! Oh and the check control module section is crossed out because I don't have that option on my car. Last edited by adamb; 08-12-2013 at 12:15 AM. Reason: Oh and the check control module section is crossed out because I don't have that option on my car. | | | 08-12-2013, 08:11 AM | #13 | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Bremerhaven, Germany Posts: 977 | Quote: Originally Posted by adamb ....Anyways the first pic is a little easier to look at. For me I had a pinched wire in the loom. It was the wire coming from the left side right tail light circuit, just followed it back till I found it fixed it and re-wrapped the wires all the way back. I've read up on this being a big issue for guys with coupes and sedans as this wire loom goes through the trunk and is subject to a lot of movement. I'm guessing something similar happens with our hatches.... | The issue with the coupes, sedans and cabrios is flexing of the trunk to trunk lid cable where it bends most sharply approaching the trunk lid. From what I have read and seen, the following factors, in probable, decreasing importance, cause the copper wiring to work harden, become brittle and break: - a plastic stiffener tube out the trunk lid that kinks the wires
- a bending radius that is two to three times too small
- and in cold climates, wire insulation that stiffens and cracks at low temperatures.
I have become something of a student of this issue and may be able to help should anyone experience it. Last edited by John Firestone; 08-12-2013 at 09:08 AM. | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |