Any Aftermarket Catalytic Converter will pass emission test?

[madfronter]

Originally Posted by nyle

i'm aware of that. the CEL doesnt come on for a few days after i clear it. i don't know how many miles is enough for the test but my mechanic never mentioned it.

It takes about 80-100 miles for everything reset in my car. I have to do this as well since my light is on from the cat I bought from bavauto. At first it didn't throw the code but after about a year it started up.

[L84THSKY]

The real question is, how do we know the CAT is throwing the code? In my case my CAT was physically destroyed inside, so I needed to replace it anyway. How about everyone else who has has this CEL code, do they know the CAT is/was the problem? If the code doesn't go away, that could mean it isn't the CAT.

This is the logic BavAuto is gonna try to convince me.

Originally Posted by madfronter

It takes about 80-100 miles for everything reset in my car. I have to do this as well since my light is on from the cat I bought from bavauto. At first it didn't throw the code but after about a year it started up.

[nyle]

hmm. good question. but it seems odd that everyones cat would be bad. almost everyone i've talked to who has replaced theirs has an issue with the aftermarket stuff.

[L84THSKY]

Update

Went to Midas to have CAT looked at. He ran his diagnostic program and said it failed code "Bank 1 sensor 2 (Downstream" was the culprit. I told him I just replaced the rear sensor late last year. I don't even see that code listed in my Peake code reader table. Are there codes that exist, that Peake can't read, or is it just described differently?

Before he even told me that, he said I had an exhaust leak. When we went under the car, he pointed the point where the cat back meets the cat. That's those spring loaded bolts.

I paid the $95.00 and was on my way. Then I started thinking, what if the exhaust leak threw the Bank 1 sensor 2" fault? Then he would be responsible for the diagnostics, because when they previously put the cat back on, they didn't tighten the bolts. If I immediately replaced the rear O2 sensor, of course the CEL would go away, because he fixed the problem by tightening the bolts.

I've decided to reset the CEL, and see if the "Cat Efficiency" code returns. If it doesn't, then he needs to refund me the diagnostics, since the fault was his own.

If the code returns then I must try to get a replacement through warranty. I bought the O2 sensor new on Ebay, and it is an OEM Bosch model. The sensor, I hope, was installed less than a year ago; need to check receipt.

One more thing, when I scanned the CEL codes, I saw another code [07] [94], which is "EWS INPUT", any idea what that is? Never saw that before, I hope it was from the diagnostics he just did.

[tiFreak]

Originally Posted by L84THSKY

One more thing, when I scanned the CEL codes, I saw another code [07] [94], which is "EWS INPUT", any idea what that is? Never saw that before, I hope it was from the diagnostics he just did.

EWS stands for "Electronic Watchdog System" IIRC, it's the thing that keeps the car from starting if the key doesn't have a chip in it

[LimitlessTI]

Hmmm. let us know it that works L84THSKY. I also have a leak ( which I can hear ) so I am going to check those bolts tonight after work.

[Moose]

Mine had a slight leak at the spring bolts as well. Passed CA smog but hissed ever so slightly. I had my muff' man eliminate that joint with a straight piece of stainless steel. Dropping the exaust is now a snap. 2 bolts at the header + the hangers and bam it's out

[marko]

exhaust leak will not cause the CEL to come on... the sensor is before the junction.

I have had a leak since I installed the Stromung POS, & no codes...

[spidertri]

Just got back from the dealer. I tried to get them to replace my cat under the 10yr warranty, it rattles around 2000rpm. They informed me that my car does qualify but that the warranty expired in Feb of this year....sucks.

So now I am looking around for an aftermarket cat, dealer wanted $1600, lol. Service manager was real cool and told me to check turner motorsports and other online sites. I found the DEC cat on bimmerworld and they suggest replacing both O2 sensors when putting on the new cat. Seems to confirm what you guys have come up with. Any suggestions?

[Moose]

SMSP cats. They have killer cats for around 100 bucks. I've got a challenger ceramic. I think I paid about 130 w/shipping.They have some sick metal cats as well. I'm not sure if those will work with the ti' though. Those cost more as well but I hear those are the shizzle as far as race cats go. Mine flows like a badass and passed CA smog. Kicks the crap outta' Magnajokes'. I felt like I got another 10 hp after I installed it. I also changed my 02's at the same time. Fixed my idle and made the car run awesome + no cel after 500 miles woot

My thread on the cat>

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22899

[spidertri]

Very cool, on SMSs website I don't see a "challenger", just universal cats which I assume are the same thing? I'm guessing that I would take this down to an exhaust shop and have them cut out the old and weld on the new one?

[nyle]

Originally Posted by Moose

no cel after 500 miles

keep us posted on that though. when i replaced mine (DEC) i didn't get one for about a thousand. now sporadically after a code reset i get it within 100-400 miles of driving.

[Moose]

well so far so good. I made a point to have the muffler shop place the new cat in exactly the same location as OE. Mines is appx the same size as stock. You obviously don't want a tiny cat so go big.

Also mines a 300 cpsi (cells pers square inch). The more cells the more back pressure and a better chance of passing i figure. They make 200's and 400's as well


When you call SMSP you have to ask for the 'Challenger' cat special for some reason

[Andrew]

The OEM cats from BMW or anyone else are higher quality - the proof is that scrap guys pay ALOT more for them than aftermarket cats. The OE 318ti cat is terribly designed as far as flow goes - has anyone looked at the inlet pipe angle? Very un-BMW like (as is the restrictive and sloppy welding in the OE downpipe joint). Eventually my OE cat broke up and the converter efficiency code set. Replacing my cat. with a Low Emission Vehicle cat. made by Eastern Industries (EMI) still results in intermittent "conv. efficiency" codes - but no so bad that you can't get it to be clear for a while before the inspection. HP and torque are much better though - and with an aftermarket muffler I dropped about 30 pounds (but my ears hurt a little).
An EMI tech also suggested that the fuel trim readings may be out of spec, which would cause the same low efficiency code. I don't have a scanner to check this, but it seems possible - might there be some injector leakage/wear problem that might cause this without setting another code? If that's the case we might just be masking another problem by using the expensive and restrictive OE cats.

[lpcapital]

I have one from a Z3 perfectly working: probably need some welding to fit the ti. It's Miller so it's OBD2 approved, if that matters. It has about 30K miles on it. If you want it I'll let it go for $250 including all the piping. S&H with Greyhound, whatever they charge.

Long story short: bought the car with a failing cat, replaced it with an aftermarket cuz I was broke, aftermarket was rattling against the heatshield, tired of dealing with it (meanwhile I got rich ), replaced it with OEM.