Ireland Engineering Bushings

[DaveKern]

Originally Posted by spidertri

Make sure you got the ti/Z3 version of the bushings and not the E30 version. They are different.

Looks like they sent me the E30 stuff despite it showing on my invoice that I have a Ti.

Looking at pics of bushings for E30 vs E36 Ti/Z3 it would appear that I can simply cut/grind the extra bit off the top and be left with the right part...Anybody ever done that?

E30 (note the extra 1/2-3/4" metal tube sticking out of the top):



Ti/Z3:



I'm thinking a phone call may be in order tomorrow to see if I can get away with the trimming method.

Dave

[mohaughn]

If you can't remove that center rod, you won't be able to modify them. I have the IE subframe bushings and I was sent the e30 ones. I had to cut the center metal bar down, and also mill out the center of the bushing.

The Ti has a nut looking thing on the bottom of the chassis. The subframe bushing is meant to sit completely around that nut. The bottom of the e30 is flat.

Found the measurements that IE gave me-

1 1/4" diameter recess at 1/4" depth
The center rod should be 3.3" total length

[DaveKern]

Originally Posted by mohaughn

Found the measurements that IE gave me-

1 1/4" diameter recess at 1/4" depth
The center rod should be 3.3" total length

Thanks for the info...sounds like it is doable, but a giant PIA.

Do you think its possible to just drill out the metal to get the appropriate length? Is it some sort of hardened steel, or something that a stepped drill bit might be able to take care of? Of course, now I'm wondering if drilling it is likely to heat up the bushing material and melt it?

I don't have a press at home, so unsure if I'll be able to push the rod out. Just trying to figure out my options, as I was really hoping to install the subframe this week.

Dave

[mohaughn]

Unfortunately, the IE subframe bushings are a slightly different design. They are a three piece bushing, two urethane halves and then the center metal pipe. So on the IE bushings, it was much easier to just cut the bar down to the proper length, and then drill our the top of the bushing. Since the bushing you are showing looks to be more like a "one" piece bushing like the stock bushing, it looks like it would be a lot harder to modify it.

Also, another note about installing these bushings. If you are going to run any sort of eccentric bolts to adjust toe/camber in the rear, you have to cut off a piece of the top tab on the subframe bushing in order for the longer eccentric bolts to fit properly. Specifically the IE weld-in camber/toe correction kit will not fit without cutting off part of the top bushing flange..

Edit-- Actually, what bushings do you have? The ones in the first picture, or the ones from the turner website noted above? If you have the first ones, it should be no problem to cut down that bar, those look just like the ones I have, except I have the harder orange ones from IE.

[chrisbec]

Has anyone seen these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_2139wt_1165

[BimmerBum]

Originally Posted by DaveKern

I think so...but the big bolts that attach to the chassis also have about 1" or so of space between them and the actual chassis.

I guess I'm unclear on why the aftermarket bushings are taller than the OEM ones? Is there some sort of geometry change they're attempting to correct? If that was the case, I'd expect they were to correct something on lowered cars...so I'm unsure if that's good for my application since my car will likely sit slightly above stock ride height.

In the top right of this image you can see one of the subframe bushings that's been pushed together. You'll notice that there's 1/2-1" of metal sticking out on the left...and now that its installed on the subframe, it's sticking out the top, so if I tried to install it as-is, it'll have the effect of lowering the subframe by that amount...I think.

I sell virtually every bushing Ireland offers. I can tell you without a doubt they sent you E30 sub frame bushings, I would not spend my time making those bushings fit, just have them correct their mistake.

I have the street sub frame bushings and urethane trailing arm bushings from Ireland in my Coupe, I like them, the rear feels much more solid. I greased them when they were installed and there are no squeaks. I also run a 22mm rear sway and the stiffer M Coupe diff bushing. I sell them because I use them and I like them. In the hundreds of sets I have sold I have never had a customer complain about them.

As for the front lower control arm bushings there are many options.

1. Ireland offset derlin bushings
2. Factory 95 M3 offset
3. 96-99 M3 solid (actually not totally solid but more solid than stock)
4. Stock
5. Centered urethane

That is just what I offer, you can find at least half a dozen more options out there.

[DaveKern]

Originally Posted by mohaughn

Unfortunately, the IE subframe bushings are a slightly different design. They are a three piece bushing, two urethane halves and then the center metal pipe. So on the IE bushings, it was much easier to just cut the bar down to the proper length, and then drill our the top of the bushing. Since the bushing you are showing looks to be more like a "one" piece bushing like the stock bushing, it looks like it would be a lot harder to modify it.

Edit-- Actually, what bushings do you have? The ones in the first picture, or the ones from the turner website noted above? If you have the first ones, it should be no problem to cut down that bar, those look just like the ones I have, except I have the harder orange ones from IE.

The E30 & E36 pics I posted were just to show the difference in the mounts at the top...I just couldn't find a good pic of an E36 Ti rubber bushing. I have the IE racing ones (one assembled, one shown apart in the pic with the kevlar background). They are 3-piece just like yours, just with a harder material. With mine, the metal rod is somewhat glued to the lower part of the bushing, but I'd bet with a big hammer I could convince it to come out.

For simplicity's sake, I'm running non eccentric trailing arm bushings. My plan is to just get the car up and running and hopefully to an event or two this year to find out just how competitive the car (and I) can be and whether or not big changes are necessary (i.e. suspension changes, power adders etc.). I've not had good luck with rally cars and eccentric stuff (impacts seem to jar camber bolts loose on a strut car). Since I'm not going to have a slammed car, I'm hopeful that the OEM geometry will actually be ok for driving on dirt. With the low grip levels, huge negative camber isn't requried, and I'm betting that these cars have a little toe-in at the back for stability's sake.

Dave

[mohaughn]

So yours are black? Usually, the street version is green, and the race version is an orange/red color. Never seen black ones before.

You should be able to modify those without issue if you are trying to save time. The Ti bushings are made from the same exact "base" bushings as the E30 ones, they just make the changes that I noted above. You can call Jeff to confirm, but I got the info directly from him.


I had a steering thrust on my rear once I installed the coilovers, so I have to go with the IE eccentric bolt in kit to get both back wheels going the same direction..

[spidertri]

Originally Posted by BimmerBum

I sell virtually every bushing Ireland offers. I can tell you without a doubt they sent you E30 sub frame bushings, I would not spend my time making those bushings fit, just have them correct their mistake.

I have the street sub frame bushings and urethane trailing arm bushings from Ireland in my Coupe, I like them, the rear feels much more solid. I greased them when they were installed and there are no squeaks. I also run a 22mm rear sway and the stiffer M Coupe diff bushing. I sell them because I use them and I like them. In the hundreds of sets I have sold I have never had a customer complain about them.

As for the front lower control arm bushings there are many options.

1. Ireland offset derlin bushings
2. Factory 95 M3 offset
3. 96-99 M3 solid (actually not totally solid but more solid than stock)
4. Stock
5. Centered urethane

That is just what I offer, you can find at least half a dozen more options out there.

Bimmerbum, have you seen or used one of Ireland's new diff bushings yet? I have the Ireland green subframe bushings and I'm wondering if I should go with their new diff bushing since it's all connected back there.

[BimmerBum]

Originally Posted by spidertri

Bimmerbum, have you seen or used one of Ireland's new diff bushings yet? I have the Ireland green subframe bushings and I'm wondering if I should go with their new diff bushing since it's all connected back there.

I have not used them but I have some here I got in with my last shippment from them. They look nice and solid I plan to use them on my ti. If you are interested in one let me know. I can post pictures here too.

[DaveKern]

Figured I'd give an update on my situation. I popped out the E30 ones in 10 seconds and I am going to get the Ti ones. I don't have a machine shop and I'd rather not mess up the parts trying to trim & cut with a drill and a grinder.

Thanks to all that chimed in!

Dave

[DaveKern]

Ugh...the new bushings showed up in the mail on Friday night. They sent another set of E30 bushings. Now debating about cutting them down and drilling them out, but have so much to do with the car that wasting time on making these work doesn't seem like a good use of my time.

Dave

[spidertri]

Wow, that's really frustrating. If you end up just returning them check out AKG Motorsport they a large selection of subframe bushings made out of different materials.

[DaveKern]

3rd times the charm. IE finally sent the right ones. They are the red ones. Woo hoo!

Dave

[jwinlaporte]

I was just wondering... I'm gonna have to replace a bent trailing arm. Unfortunately, I already put new IE bushings in just a couple thousand miles ago. My question is can I reuse these in the new (junkyard) trailing arm when it comes, or should I just get new ones (again)? Any chiming in on this would be appreciated.