» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | looove 04-16-2024 01:18 PM 04-16-2024 01:18 PM 0 Replies, 376 Views | | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:45 PM 04-13-2024 11:45 PM 0 Replies, 209 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:43 PM 04-13-2024 11:44 PM 1 Replies, 135 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:40 PM 04-13-2024 11:41 PM 1 Replies, 132 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:38 PM 04-13-2024 11:39 PM 1 Replies, 134 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:36 PM 04-13-2024 11:37 PM 1 Replies, 135 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:35 PM 04-13-2024 11:35 PM 0 Replies, 115 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:34 PM 04-13-2024 11:34 PM 0 Replies, 121 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:33 PM 04-13-2024 11:33 PM 0 Replies, 115 Views | | | | | 04-29-2009, 10:15 PM | #1 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 121 | What sway bars fit our ti's Please help me understand what sway bars fit on our 318ti's. This is my understanding so far. SWAY BAR INFO: Suspension: Front E36, Rear E30/Z3 stock: front 25, rear 14 sport: front 26, rear 16 M Roadster: front 22? do these fit?, rear 18.5 M Coupe: front 22?, rear 19 H&R: front 28(PN: 70970), rear 19(71970) <~$220 bucks each! E36 M3: front ? do these fit?, rear doesn't fit E30 M3: front ?, rear ? My friend once owned a 318ti sport, he complained of too much body roll during sport/autocross driving. So I'm trying to find some thing stiffer than the sport package for as little $'s as possible. Thanks for your help __________________ I always tighten them before I loosen em, that's a trick that my father taught me. | | | 04-29-2009, 10:22 PM | #2 | Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: asdfasdf Posts: 10,002 | E36 M3s used a different sway bar that was tied to the struts, so you'd need M3 struts to run them I've also heard people say that the stock sport bar in the rear is just fine if you have a thicker bar in the front | | | 04-29-2009, 10:32 PM | #3 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 121 | Thanks Pauly! Yeah I don't think I'm going to switch to M3 struts unless I win the lottery and can afford to build a 6 cylinder powered ti, but that's really good to know. I've heard lots of people on this forum who are very afraid of running running stiff rear bars for fear of the dreaded oversteer! Personally like to think of oversteer as the goal of every good corner, but that's just me. __________________ I always tighten them before I loosen em, that's a trick that my father taught me. | | | 04-29-2009, 10:59 PM | #4 | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Land of the Vikings Posts: 2,700 | you can use the front sway bar from an 6cyl e36 at 25,5mm ( thats 2mm thicker) the E36 M3 items are actually thinner at 23mm The e30 M front sways wont fit -- The Z3 m rear bar (18.5mm) does fit with the correct links The E30 m3 rear bar is only 14.5mm , and no confirmation on fitment.. but i think it would All details are given from European vehicle specs, i have not considered the US / pacifics in the search __________________ Vin Number decode and Retrofit Pdfs Available Free ! Just PM | | | 04-29-2009, 11:27 PM | #5 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 121 | Thanks Mallard, Do you know, do the front bars from the Z3 or M Roaster fit the front of a ti? __________________ I always tighten them before I loosen em, that's a trick that my father taught me. | | | 04-29-2009, 11:30 PM | #6 | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Land of the Vikings Posts: 2,700 | Yeah they do , and are the same size as the e36 items up to 3.0l the M versions run a thinner sway just like the E36 counterparts Weird.. __________________ Vin Number decode and Retrofit Pdfs Available Free ! Just PM | | | 04-29-2009, 11:42 PM | #7 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 121 | yeah it must have something to do with reducing the weight of the bars for the M cars. They'd probably be a lot heaver if they attached the same way as the regular E36, and sense the M cars were probably already using a stronger/more expensive front strut they could take advantage of it by using a lighter design for the bar. Or at least that's my theory. Now does anyone know of a good listing of OE sway bars sizes for US spec cars? __________________ I always tighten them before I loosen em, that's a trick that my father taught me. | | | 04-30-2009, 12:05 AM | #8 | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Land of the Vikings Posts: 2,700 | try in on www.bmwfans.info for help there The material is the same i think , bu´t the susp. geometry and dampers are different, so there isnt such a strong dependance for the thicker bar? i honestly have no idea Lol!! __________________ Vin Number decode and Retrofit Pdfs Available Free ! Just PM | | | 04-30-2009, 12:11 AM | #9 | Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: asdfasdf Posts: 10,002 | the M sway bars are shorter, so even though they're thinner, they're stiffer | | | 04-30-2009, 12:19 AM | #10 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 121 | Quote: Originally Posted by Mallard | wow what an awesome site! Thanks for the tip! __________________ I always tighten them before I loosen em, that's a trick that my father taught me. | | | 04-30-2009, 02:27 AM | #11 | Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: 43609 Posts: 3,425 | Quote: Originally Posted by tiFreak the M sway bars are shorter, so even though they're thinner, they're stiffer | Yup, its due to their design with their endlinks and suspension geometry as a whole. Its a stiffer setup while using a thinner bar. You can get the tabs to weld onto non-m struts as well as endlinks to attach an M sway to a non-m strut. __________________ 1995 Hellrot Clubsport 318ti -Gone 1996 Schwartz II Sport 357ti - 5.7L V8 LS1/6 1997 Moregrun Metallic 318ti - Gone 1998 Schwartz II sport 318ti - M50TUB25/5 | | | 04-30-2009, 08:32 PM | #12 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 121 | TI sway bar matrix So I did some research on the BMWfans web site and made this matrix up I hope helpful to someone. __________________ I always tighten them before I loosen em, that's a trick that my father taught me. | | | 04-30-2009, 08:50 PM | #13 | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Elizabeth City, NC Posts: 3,877 | If you read through the Eibach front sway group buy thread there is some pretty good discussion as to why the ti doesn't need a larger rear sway. I read that some of the guys who autox/track their M coupes disconnect their rear sway bars all together. To control body roll just get stiffer rear springs. __________________ ~Dave~ 98 328ti Morea Grun slicktop 11 128i space gray slicktop 13 JGC WK2 Deep Cherry Search | RealOEM | | | 05-01-2009, 04:45 PM | #14 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 121 | Hummmm... well I'll have to read that but as far as my understanding goes, bars transfer grip to the opposite side of the car. So for an autocrossing application i can't imagine why lots of front grip wouldn't be good. I can understand that people would be afraid of a vehicles tendency to overseer, especially on the street, but with as little power as a TI with a worn clutch has it sounds like exactly what it needs to me. But I will read __________________ I always tighten them before I loosen em, that's a trick that my father taught me. | | | 05-01-2009, 08:11 PM | #15 | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Odenton, MD Posts: 419 | Bar doesn't transfer grip. A bar steals spring rate from the opposite wheel. So the outside wheel in a turn steals spring rate from the inside. That being said, a HUGE front sway works well on the BMWs because it limits the amount of roll, and therefore camber change in the front. This actually means that a big front bar will actually increase oversteer, which is counter intuitive. Removing the rear sway (with the proper rear spring rate) will prevent this "stealing" of rates, and therefore allow better articulation of the rear suspension and improve contact patch. In other works, when that outside wheel steals rate from the inside, it can (and will) lift that inside tire. If you are like most ti's, and lack a limited slip, this means you get "one-tire-fire" as the inside tire becomes unloaded. Upping the spring rate fixes the body roll caused by removing the rear bar and keeps the rotation the way you want it. | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Thread Tools | | Display Modes | Linear Mode | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |