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-   -   Heat at speed, cool air at idle (http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7784)

labiel 12-06-2008 11:57 PM

Same problem here:/ Cold(warm) on idle hot at high(but not to hot). It all happend after swap so I hope it's not heater since it's very hard to remove. I've repleced water pump during swap. I don't have stream from upper hole in coolant tank - I've read that this happens when pump is bad or when there is air in system. Since I burped it for 1h twice, checked valve (ok), thermostat is opening ok, I'm left with water pump, but it's new:/ Anyone found solution?

stymes01 12-17-2008 03:54 PM

Hate to beat on this thread, I have a similar problem. I regrettably have to drive my 98 cali top in the winter in MN (hopefully for the last year). 2 winters ago I stored it but took it out occasionally. It did this blow cold at idle thing too, I flushed the coolant and that problem seemed to go away. New problem. My car struggles to stay at temp when not at highway speeds in cold weather. Another interesting problem is that every window on the car ices up from the inside and is terrible below 20 degree F. Its so bad I end up only being able to use my mirrors to see on either side of me and behind me. Even the Hatch ices up from the inside with the defrost on for an hour if its below zero. My ideal solution would be to not drive the car in the winter, but since I have to anyone else have this problem with icing up on the inside of the car. I'm not kidding its every window and I cant see a thing. The windshield defrost takes care of the windshield minus the top 6-8 inches . I'm not sure where all this moisture is coming from!

labiel 12-21-2008 02:17 AM

Solved, I've added additional electric pump from E34 and now it's warming fast plus I have hot air when engine is warm and stopped since electrical pump do the trick ;) I think you could have broken heater core, check if your're not loosing coolant. But if engine is not warming at all or slow check also thermostat.

zoner 12-21-2008 02:46 AM


Originally Posted by 1996 328ti (Post 41539)
There is a bleed valve or screw on the top of the raditor.
You should have water flowing through the valve at idle.
And STOP calling me Cali. ;)

Ahh! So that's what that screw is. I've always just bled cooling systems through the radiator cap, and just did the same with my ti. Seems to have worked fine... :| ??

Severian 01-23-2009 07:58 PM


Originally Posted by ngr5011 (Post 205751)
all that I had to do was let the car sit over night so its cold, then turn the key to on (no start) heat on high, fan on 3, turn your bleed screw until fluid comes out. There is air in your system. This solved it for me after replacing the thermostat.

This is a step I have not done...I'll try this. If you can't tell, this problem never permanently went away for me. It has plagued me for the entire life of the car. Heat at RPMs is better than no heat...I solved that in early '08. But as in my post above here are all the things I've done.

* Replaced Thermostat
* Bled air
* Replaced water pump
* Fixed bowden cable problem

Severian 01-23-2009 08:00 PM


Originally Posted by stymes01 (Post 207508)
...I'm not kidding its every window and I cant see a thing.

Stymes, I'm no expert, but this symptom makes it sound like your cab recycle is on all the time Perhaps that flap is stuck? I don't know where it is though.

Zolf 12-20-2011 10:33 AM

Had the exact same problem. Heat at speed, cool/cold air at idle. Bowden cable did it for me.


volgapower 12-24-2011 04:28 PM

how should i check wether the bowden cable is not working?

Zolf 12-25-2011 03:24 AM

I played around with the temperature knob. Turning it to "cool" I could hear a clicking sound as it "clicked" into place. However, turning it the other way (towards heat) no such sound was produced. But this isn't the proper way of doing it. I was just lucky, I guess. Remove the radio panel + radio and check to see if the cable is securely attached. A couple of screws and ~30min later you should have your answer.

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