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Old 10-04-2009, 02:09 AM   #1
ShaneS_009
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Default What The Heck....Whats with the Temp

Ok the last few days when I drive my car it gets Hot. I don't know whats up with it. I just got it a week ago. Today before I Started it up I opened the Radiator cap up and Coolant came out like it was pressurized. Is this Normal? I have never had a Vehicle that when you opened the radiator cap coolant came out. The car heats up pretty fast and then stays in the "NORMAL" area for a few then it starts to gradually go up. I turned on the Defrost and it NEVER got hot. What the heck, I don't know whats going on. It was fine 2 days ago. Anyone know whats up?
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Old 10-04-2009, 02:27 AM   #2
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Try searching the forum before you start threads. This topic has been covered pretty extensively over the past few weeks. You need to bleed the air out of your radiator, I'll let you look up how to do it, since it gets pretty old typing directions on how to properly bleed the cooling system. I will say that if you let your car overheat, even if it's just for a minute, you'll be replacing your engine soon. So you might want to get things sorted out asap.
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Old 10-10-2009, 03:29 AM   #3
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Yeah well, I went ahead and took it in to a Shop near here that works on Foreign Autos. He replaced the thermostat, said it was stuck. I finally picked it up today and guess what its doing again? Same thing. It keeps getting hot, it is fine for like 10 minutes at normal temperature then the gauge starts going higher and higher. The man thinks its a Head Gasket, I don't think so because it runs like a champ then entire time, even when its hot. It doesn't seem like it is losing coolant, and the oil looks fine. The man says that he is the only shop around that has the tools that can work on it, I call bull **** that. Any one have any ideas? If they Replaced the thermostat,they had to bleed the system so it shouldn't be that. He did say that it has a new water pump with metal fins on it and he said it looked fine. Any other Ideas?
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:25 AM   #4
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Id say drain it completely, refill, then rebleed it. If it wont bleed, then you should look into compression testing, leakdown, and possible head gasket. It doesnt take much to blow these head gaskets, quit driving it hot...
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Old 10-10-2009, 07:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaneS_009 View Post
If they Replaced the thermostat,they had to bleed the system so it shouldn't be that.
That's a pretty bold assumption. Are you willing to risk $2000 in repairs on the assumption that a shop properly bled the system after relacing a thermostat? Ask the mechanic what procedure he used to bleed your system, I bet he doesn't even know how.
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Old 10-10-2009, 09:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaneS_009 View Post
The man thinks its a Head Gasket, I don't think so because it runs like a champ then entire time, even when its hot.
WTF???? What are you stupid? This statement sounds like you punch it even when its hot. WHY ARE YOU DRIVING YOUR CAR WHEN ITS HOT?
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It doesn't need park distance control, and hates decadence. It is musclepacked, yet lightly wound. It lets you feel the asphalt and get you going with the smallest touch of the pedal. It provokes, seduces, and demands to be driven hard. It looks, sounds, and smells like performance.

Last edited by HuGo; 10-10-2009 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 10-10-2009, 09:49 AM   #7
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http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27277

In case you need a new motor.
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It doesn't need park distance control, and hates decadence. It is musclepacked, yet lightly wound. It lets you feel the asphalt and get you going with the smallest touch of the pedal. It provokes, seduces, and demands to be driven hard. It looks, sounds, and smells like performance.
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Old 10-10-2009, 11:22 AM   #8
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Ouch! That's pretty harsh. He's new to the game, so he probably isn't aware of the consequences of overheating these motors. Let me emphasize the severity of this for you Shane, if you overheat the engine, meaning if that needle on your dash begins to rise beyond the 12 o'clock position, you run a substantial risk of blowing a headgasket. Not just a substantial risk, but probably a 75% chance with another 10% for every 30 seconds that it's in the red. If you blow a headgasket, it often causes warpage of the aluminum head. At the very minimum, if you do the work yourself, you're looking at atleast 12 hours, maybe double if you've never done one before and about 300-400 bucks if the head isn't warped. A shop will more than likely charge between 1500-2000 bucks to do this job. Total waste if you ask me considering it only takes a few minutes to read through some threads and learn how to properly bleed the system. Whether or not you decide to learn the hard way is entirely up to you. You could either take the mechanics word that he bled your system, in which case you'll likely be going back to give him more of your business in the near future(about $2000 worth of your business). Or you could simply take the advice given AND BLEED YOUR COOLING SYSTEM!!! Apparently our advice wasn't good enough if you decided to take the car to a mechanic and have the thermostat replaced when the symptoms described in your first post clearly indicated that you have air in your system.

Here's a related thread with posts as recent as 7 days ago:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28063

Pay close attention to this post in particular:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showpost....8&postcount=35

Hope that helps. Hope it's not too late. Good luck, sorry if I came off rude, just hate repeating myself over and over again
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Old 10-10-2009, 12:11 PM   #9
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could be coming into this bling since the shop might not have bled it right but it could have a coolant block somewhere. my cousins camaro had a block in the heater core, take off the hoses and put a garden hose to your block. if water isnt coming in quite as quick as your hose is letting it in then you have a clog somewhere. but bleed the system first like they said, if they were right you saved yourself 15ish bucks on new coolant.
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Old 10-10-2009, 01:38 PM   #10
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Maybe some air in the coolant system.

At the front lift yup your BMW (additional).
Turn blower and heater to max.
Start the engine.
Remove the air bleed plug (on the top of the radiotor).
Begin with air bleeding procedure.
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Old 10-10-2009, 02:34 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by cooljess76 View Post
There's a lot more to it than just removing the bleed screw and filling the expansion tank. This is why people have to go back and rebleed over and over.

Start by parking on an incline so the nose of the vehicle is angled upward. Air bubbles travel up. With a cool/running engine, turn the heater on full blast. By full blast, I mean turn the temp knob on the HVAC panel to full red and turn the fan all the way to the highest setting. This will allow coolant to circulate through the heater core. Now, pop the hood and remove the radiator fill cap and bleed screw. Slowly add coolant/water to the radiator expansion tank. Continue to fill until you see coolant exiting the bleed hole. You can assist the air bubbles by tapping on the top of the radiator and massaging the radiator hoses. Once you see a steady stream of coolant with no bubbles flowing out of the bleed hole, replace the bleed screw and fill cap. Drive around the block a few times, park on the same incline, let the engine cool and repeat the process 3 or 4 times.
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:27 PM   #12
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Thank you for the people trying to help. And for the ones that are just bashing, give me a break, I am new to all of this and I have never had to deal with any cooling issues before. *When it starts to get hot, I take it as soon as possible and park it. *When I said it runs like a champ is when the needle is in the right place. It runs like a new car, doesn't miss, doesn't do anything out of the ordinary. *I took it to a mechanic because I have school in the mornings and work in the evenings. I Hardly have time to even sit let alone work on a car I just bought. Let alone it is my only car. *He told me he had a hard time bleeding it so they hooked a vacuum up to the system and put coolant in at the same time. *He told me they had it running for 20 minutes or so with no problems at all, and they drove it about 2 miles and nothing at all. When I got it I drove it for about 10 minutes going to BW3's and the needle started to inch towards the red. I let it cool down and took it back to them. Now the thing is, My Grandpa has been a mechanic for like 30 years, and he thinks this man is trying to take me for everything. I won't be able to get the car back until Monday. I am going to bring it home, and I will start trouble shooting it. Thank you everyone that is trying to help out!
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Old 10-10-2009, 07:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaneS_009 View Post
*When I said it runs like a champ is when the needle is in the right place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaneS_009 View Post
it runs like a champ then entire time, even when its hot.
Who you trying to fool? Or are you lying? You just said it runs like a champ even when hot. Don't drive the car when its hot.
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It doesn't need park distance control, and hates decadence. It is musclepacked, yet lightly wound. It lets you feel the asphalt and get you going with the smallest touch of the pedal. It provokes, seduces, and demands to be driven hard. It looks, sounds, and smells like performance.
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Old 10-10-2009, 07:44 PM   #14
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Thermostat can be also the problem.
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Old 10-10-2009, 08:40 PM   #15
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he said thermostat was just repaced... if he thinks its the thermostat he can try running the car without it for a minute.
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