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Old 12-27-2008, 02:18 AM   #1
Xenocide
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Default Hatch Lock Dying?

I noticed when i got the car sometimes the trunk lock would stay in the sideways position when i locked the car.

Today I unlocked the car from the drivers door and the trunk didn't even unlock. When i unlock with the trunk keyhole it sounds like the motor is struggling to move.

Does this actuator or what ever it is back there go bad? What is my plan of attack here?
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Old 12-27-2008, 03:03 AM   #2
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did you turn the trunk lock sideways with the key? I seem to remember them having a feature that if the lock was turned sideways with the key, it couldn't be unlocked with the valet key or the power locks, try using the key to turn the lock vertical
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Old 12-27-2008, 03:15 AM   #3
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I have, but even when its vertical it sounds like the lock actuator is barely moving. The lock itself turns fine....
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:44 PM   #4
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These actuators do fail after a few years.

Mine is also on it's way out; however I was advised to wait until it outright dies before I bother fixing it.

Mine is almost 11 years old now...
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Old 12-30-2008, 01:14 AM   #5
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mine is about 13 almost 14 How do you know how hard it is to get to?
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Old 12-30-2008, 05:11 AM   #6
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I had trouble with my hatch lock mechanism not long after I got the car. There were a couple of issues.

1) The chrome button that the key is inserted into would stay pushed in after the hatch was opened. I sprayed just a bit of lube in there, but don't remember what it was, probably WD-40, but that's probably not the best thing. I think I borrowed some graphite spray to squirt into where the key is inserted.

2) The hatch would not unlock when using the key in either of the doors, or using the interior button. It unlocked fine using the key directly in the hatch lock. I expected it to be a bad actuator, but it turned out that a tiny, white plastic linkage had broken. Luckily it was cheap, something like 30 cents at the dealer.

CAUTION: There are 2 different styles of linkage, it'll depend on which brand of actuator you have. I couldn't tell for sure which one was which when looking at realoem.com. If you have to order them online, or without seeing exactly what you're getting, order one of each, or better yet 2 of each so you'll have a spare. I ordered 2 pair from the dealer and returned the ones I didn't need. The best thing to do is to take the broken bit to the dealer so you get the right part the first time. Keep in mind that one of the broken bits may be lurking inside the interior part of the hatch. So while removing the cover be careful that you don't lose any small bits of white plastic.

I still have my spare with the correct number... somewhere. Let me know if you need a photo of it and I'll see what I can do.
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Old 12-30-2008, 03:00 PM   #7
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did you take the hatch off the car when you took it apart, or left it in the air?
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Old 12-30-2008, 03:24 PM   #8
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i left mine in the air. its about 50 bucks for the piece and 3 minutes worth of work. i just did it not even a week ago
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Old 12-30-2008, 04:41 PM   #9
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Yep, leave the hatch attached to the car and just remove the interior panel. I could be wrong but I think there are just 4 screws holding it on.
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Old 12-30-2008, 04:57 PM   #10
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I've replaced lock mechanisms on two Tees. On both, the interior hatch trim has to quarter sized plastic fasteners on the leading edge. These remove by pushing inward on the tiny center release pin. Trying to pull them out otherwise will wreck them, ask me how I know. Once the external fasteners are removed, the panel is secured by a series of large plastic cone-like fasteners that snap out of their contact points. They can be stiff to pull out.

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Old 01-21-2009, 04:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikdee View Post
I've replaced lock mechanisms on two Tees. On both, the interior hatch trim has to quarter sized plastic fasteners on the leading edge. These remove by pushing inward on the tiny center release pin. Trying to pull them out otherwise will wreck them, ask me how I know. Once the external fasteners are removed, the panel is secured by a series of large plastic cone-like fasteners that snap out of their contact points. They can be stiff to pull out.

_Rick
Hey Rick, thanks for this post. I just ordered the Trunk Catch below from ECS Tuning because my trunk catch died over the weekend. I removed the pins on the leading edge of the interior panel just like you mentioned (I also didn't know how to properly remove them...oops), and I removed two screws. I cannot for the life of me remove this panel. I feel like I'm forcing it and it will snap at any moment. All I'm able to do is bend the upper corners outwards away from the hatch lid and I can get a peek at what are probably the plastic fasteners that you mention, but how do I detach the panel from these fasteners?? I plan to replace the trunk catch on my own once the part arrives but I hit this road block.

Thanks in advance and very frustratedly yours,

Sev

Part# 51248201784
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Old 01-21-2009, 04:50 PM   #12
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i noticed if you use some graphite lube it will get you lock cylinder moving freely again. but this may not be the fix for the actuator, but it may help cause less stress on it
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Old 01-22-2009, 10:19 PM   #13
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I'm preparing to implement this fix in the next 3 days...if someone could enlighten me on how to remove the lower trunk/hatch panel I would really appreciate it. I've removed 2 pins and 2 screws, and the damn thing is still attached under there and I can't see how to remove it from those plastic pegs (or whatever they are)!
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Old 01-23-2009, 11:27 AM   #14
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Okay I successfully pulled it off this morning...the plastic pegs put up a lot of resistance but basically you just try to position your hand near them and pull. HARD

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