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Old 11-03-2011, 09:36 PM  
CirrusSR22
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Default DIY: Timing Case Cover Gaskets and Chain Guides

DIY: Timing Case Cover Gaskets (Upper and Lower), Timing Chain Guides, Timing Chain Tensioner, Thermostat.

---------------------------------

I decided to finally tackle an intermittent oil leak. From what I could tell this leak was coming from the lower timing case...

Last edited by CirrusSR22; 11-10-2011 at 06:21 AM.
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  #15  
By eurohb on 05-11-2012, 10:35 PM
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correct, since you need to hold the pulley in place in order to remove the front case.
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  #16  
By paul somlo on 06-06-2014, 06:18 AM
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Umm... regarding those fasteners that hold the AC compressor on - is one of the three on the top of the compressor, accessible only from below, but not visible?
The picture was taken from below and the 6mm allen wrench is engaged with the fastener, the head of which points to the rear of the vehicle. To the left, one of the AC compressor bracket bolts is visible - it's the recessed one that can't be accessed with the compressor in place. Before I loosen that 3rd fastener, I just want to be sure that's the one, and not some fastener holding the compressor case together. And if that is the one, how did you deal with it? Also, I'm wondering if the inaccessible bracket bolt might be accessed with a 13mm offset box end wrench, rather than unbolting the compressor from the bracket?

Paul
'96ti 211,000mi



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File Type: jpg P6050956.JPG (82.5 KB, 122 views)
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  #17  
By Biolite on 06-06-2014, 02:32 PM
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For that one, I removed the AC compressor from the bracket and secured it out of the way (as much as feasibly possible) so it wasn't hanging on the hoses the whole time. Then that bolt becomes accessible. I think I used to a 1/4" drive socket wrench for it since the space was so tight.
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  #18  
By paul somlo on 09-06-2014, 01:53 AM
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Replaced my timing cover gaskets several months ago and I've been meaning to post this. Here's how I dealt with the upper bolt that holds the compressor to the bracket - the allen wrench is 6mm, while the ratcheting box end wrench is 1/4", which is the closest thing I had.
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File Type: jpg P9051008.JPG (84.7 KB, 43 views)
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  #19  
By paul somlo on 08-20-2016, 04:12 PM
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The gasket that the arrow points to in the picture below - I suppose I would need to remove the cylinder head to replace it?
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File Type: jpg e36 cyl head gasket.jpg (63.6 KB, 53 views)
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  #20  
By cgillchico on 12-12-2016, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul somlo View Post
The gasket that the arrow points to in the picture below - I suppose I would need to remove the cylinder head to replace it?
Yes and I would suggest using grey rtv to seal the nubs on the ends.
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  #21  
By paul somlo on 12-13-2016, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgillchico View Post
Yes and I would suggest using grey rtv to seal the nubs on the ends.
Wish you had told me that two months ago. I tried the procedure in the Bentley manual, using a piece of 0.006" spring steel in place of the BMW special tool. I never could pull the sheet metal out without the gasket distorting, so I ended up removing the head. Not a bad job in September, but not enjoyable in December in Colorado, in an unheated garage. Good thing I've got a spare ride.
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  #22  
By karlis189 on 10-31-2017, 10:11 AM
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Can't see any pictures.. any help with that?
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  #23  
By paul somlo on 10-31-2017, 06:54 PM
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Some of the pics are visible, some were apparently loaded to photobucket, however.
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  #24  
By 96318ticali on 08-16-2020, 02:53 AM
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This photo shows the water pump installed with the lower timing cover removed. Based on this photo, is it accurate to infer that the lower timing chain cover CAN be removed without removing the water pump?

http://www.318ti.org/forum/attachmen...5&d=1471705897
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  #25  
By paul somlo on 08-16-2020, 03:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96318ticali View Post
This photo shows the water pump installed with the lower timing cover removed. Based on this photo, is it accurate to infer that the lower timing chain cover CAN be removed without removing the water pump?

http://www.318ti.org/forum/attachmen...5&d=1471705897
I've been told so, although I wasn't able to. I think I may have had some casting flash on the pump that was hanging up the cover. There may be slight differences in how the castings come out of the mold, I suppose it's also possible that there was a slight change in the casting at some point. At any rate, I think it's a very close fit between the pump and cover.

I went through the paces early this summer of trying to fix my oil leaks (for the 2nd or 3rd time). Took the transmission off, replaced the rear seal, put the seal carrier back in with RTV and deleted the factory gasket. Removed both timing covers, deleted the factory gasket, sealed it very well with RTV. Still getting leaking where the trans and engine meet and still have a leak at the timing cover interface - I'm thinking where the two covers and profile gasket converge. A drop every few days, but still annoying. I give up, I'll just drive it, tired of chasing the oil leaks. I might try changing the oil pan gasket next oil change, but not optimistic. It's funny - that saying, "you know your BMW's low on fluids when it stops leaking", that rings true. Because of the way the oil pan is canted side to side, when I'm down a quart or so, no more leaking from the back of the engine.
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  #26  
By 96318ticali on 08-16-2020, 03:23 PM
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LOL, Thanks for your reply. The car has over 230K miles and I'm uncertain how many miles are on the water pump. I think I'll swap in a new pump while I'm in there because if I don't it will probably start leaking the following week. Haha. This is my second ti and I enjoy the car very much. Happy motoring!
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