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Old 03-28-2012, 08:24 PM   #1
TroyAndEddie
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Default Wiring 2 windows to 1 switch?

Okay, so here's what I'm working with in the pic.
- 2 rear window motor/assemblies
- 1 window switch
- 2 random relays



Electrical guru I am not. So I'm wanting to know if it's possible to wire both of these windows to the one window switch? And if so, do I need more that what's in the pic?

OR could I splice the wiring from the motors into the current switches for the front windows, and just have the vent windows open with the front windows?
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:24 AM   #2
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can't really help you with electrics but i can bump you for what looks like a great idea
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:05 AM   #3
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I like this idea, don't see why it wouldn't work, I think your switch may get a little warm...not sure though
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:06 PM   #4
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After a day of researching and pondering, here's what I'm going to try:

-Take the new switch and splice into the driver's window switch for my power, ground, and switch illumination. Essentially share the wiring.
-Then, I'll run two separate wires from the switch to each rear window motor. That will serve as my positive connection to the motors.
-I'll use a ground source near the motors to reduce the amount of wiring.
-Then cross my fingers, and press some buttons.

I'll field test it this weekend, but the actual full install won't happen until my CD43 and DICE unit get here in a couple weeks. No sense in tearing apart the interior twice.
I plan on taking copious amounts of photos and maybe a video as well for documenting purposes. Hopefully, a successful DIY when all is said and done!
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:57 PM   #5
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looking forward to seeing how it comes out, good luck
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:09 PM   #6
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My first question is why would you want to do this? Simple splice wires, solder them together or crimp..and done
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eurohb View Post
My first question is why would you want to do this? Simple splice wires, solder them together or crimp..and done
I'm assuming your question about why I'm doing this is referring to having both windows on 1 switch. If this is the case, I have a couple reasons.
1: My alarm LED is taking up one of the four window switch slots, and I don't want to go dremelling to find another slot for that.
2: When I open the vent windows, I always open both. I never see myself wanting to just open one side in the rear. So there's no point in having 2 switches if I can make 1 happen.

As to the splice, soldering and crimping, I'm not sure which wires/points you're specifically referring to. But I'm more than happy to take more specific suggestions if this particular arena comes second nature to you.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:46 PM   #8
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Pardon my ignorance but they made Ti's with rear power vent windows? If so then cool and i just learned something new lol.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:47 PM   #9
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^^^i thought the same exact thing
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:42 PM   #10
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They were only available on European E46 Ti models. So it's definitely a custom retrofit to fit them in our E36s. Being stationed overseas helped me gather the parts I needed, so now it's just trying to make it all work.
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:48 PM   #11
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makes sense, on the topic of the E46 ti while in germany this summer i fell in love with them, mainly they're uniqueness from the rest of the E46 range
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TroyAndEddie View Post
They were only available on European E46 Ti models. So it's definitely a custom retrofit to fit them in our E36s. Being stationed overseas helped me gather the parts I needed, so now it's just trying to make it all work.
Cool to know. Thanks for the knowledge!
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TroyAndEddie View Post
-Then, I'll run two separate wires from the switch to each rear window motor. That will serve as my positive connection to the motors.
You'll likely need an older window switch if it will directly drive the motors. The newer ones with small 1x4 or 2x3 connectors are meant to drive the low current, solid state inputs of the ZKE/general module.
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:05 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Firestone View Post
You'll likely need an older window switch if it will directly drive the motors. The newer ones with small 1x4 or 2x3 connectors are meant to drive the low current, solid state inputs of the ZKE/general module.
I have 2 older switches from an 92 4-door. It has the white connectors and thicker-than-normal wires. They don't have the one-touch up/down feature (which I wasn't going to use anyway). Think those would work?
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:35 PM   #15
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Made some progress and took a couple videos. They're almost uploaded now, so keep checking back on the site. I'll continue to add videos and photos as I progress.

https://picasaweb.google.com/TroyAndEddie/318tiWork
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Last edited by TroyAndEddie; 03-30-2012 at 10:58 PM.
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