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Old 08-03-2013, 10:59 PM   #1
john318isau
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Default DASC kit fitted - are my pipes correct

I just bought a 1998 318is with a DASC kit already fitted.

The intake system has been assembled as air filter, metal elbow from kit, MAF, standard intake pipe then throttle body, etc.

Should the metal elbow be after the MAF?

The metal elbow has a pipe connected to it which runs to the back of the rocker cover. Subsequently the MAF is covered in oil and showing a fault code.

If I do move the elbow after the MAF the elbow has to be flipped upside down which means that the breather pipe will be on top and it hits the underside of the bonnet. I could put a right angle bend on it or drill a hole at the bottom instead. Is there any problem with it being at the top?

Also there's no PCV valve or oil separator on the pipe that goes from the rocker cover to the elbow. Is that normal?

Can I eliminate the metal elbow? But then where would I run the breather pipe to? There is another pipe from the intake tube that goes to the (air shrouded) injectors. Could I put a T piece on that and run both tubes from there or would it be bad to have the breather going straight to the injectors?

Does anyone run the standard airbox with DASC?
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:07 PM   #2
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Most of what you stated does not sound correct. A photo would be worth a thousand words in this case.

There are installation manual links on this site.

http://www.318ti.org/forum/attachmen...2&d=1290368293

See page 12, figure 13. PRV should be between the valve cover and the elbow.

I run the stock airbox (Fogged) on my M44 (Z3).
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Mods: DASC, NickG Stage II DME software, 30# injectors, RRFPR removed, DISA Simulator, Secondary Air Pump relocated, bypass cooling hose removed, Fogged airbox, Bosch silver sparkplugs (F6DSR), Magnecore sparkplug wires (KV85), SeattleCircuit mpg adjuster circuit; Textar CeramicFusion brake pads; S/E/M auto trans selector with Euro software TCU; Royal Purple trans (MaxATF) & diff fluids; Koni FSD (F&R); Rogue RSMs; Strong Strut; Butt Strut; Bridgestone Fuzion ZR1 225/50/16 on Style 42's; hardtop; Footwell lighting; Interior lighting On/Off switchable; Euro intermittent wipers; Padded LeatherZ arm rests; Sisa Design Cabrio Wind Deflector;

Last edited by Monolith; 08-06-2013 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:30 PM   #3
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The nipple on the elbow is for the brake booster line. The hose you have connected to the elbow now should be connected to the PCV valve.

See page 14 of the instructions Monolith posted.

Let us know how making that change works.
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Old 08-06-2013, 11:44 PM   #4
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As you can see my car is right hand drive, not sure if that makes a difference.

I don't think I have a PRV any more (should I?).

I have attached a picture and the pipe in question is shown in red (approximate path).

Thanks for the advice so far. I will have a look through the manual now.


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Old 08-06-2013, 11:54 PM   #5
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The pipe in red should be hooked to PCV to create a vacuum in the crankcase. This reduces emissions and helps control oil leaks
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Old 08-07-2013, 12:02 AM   #6
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The PCV seems to have been eliminated on this car. I see in the instructions the kit would have come with an adaptor to use the stock valve. Any idea where I could get this aluminium adaptor? Would I be able to find a new or used one in the USA, because I know there's zero chance of finding one here in Australia as I don't think many of these kits found there way here.
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:01 AM   #7
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PRV goes from valve cover to the side connection on the elbow (can't be seen from this angle of the photo - look behind the elbow). Your PRV is probably tucked down behind by the firewall. Probably the hose just came off the valve cover - it's not very tight and the PRV can weigh it down.

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Mods: DASC, NickG Stage II DME software, 30# injectors, RRFPR removed, DISA Simulator, Secondary Air Pump relocated, bypass cooling hose removed, Fogged airbox, Bosch silver sparkplugs (F6DSR), Magnecore sparkplug wires (KV85), SeattleCircuit mpg adjuster circuit; Textar CeramicFusion brake pads; S/E/M auto trans selector with Euro software TCU; Royal Purple trans (MaxATF) & diff fluids; Koni FSD (F&R); Rogue RSMs; Strong Strut; Butt Strut; Bridgestone Fuzion ZR1 225/50/16 on Style 42's; hardtop; Footwell lighting; Interior lighting On/Off switchable; Euro intermittent wipers; Padded LeatherZ arm rests; Sisa Design Cabrio Wind Deflector;
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:10 AM   #8
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There is definitely no PRV. Whoever installed this ran the pipe from the cam cover all the way to that metal elbow behind the air filter, as shown with my red line.
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:23 AM   #9
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Photo of elbow connection:




Photo of PRV by firewall:

Left arrow points to connection that can come loose. Right arrow is PRV.

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Mods: DASC, NickG Stage II DME software, 30# injectors, RRFPR removed, DISA Simulator, Secondary Air Pump relocated, bypass cooling hose removed, Fogged airbox, Bosch silver sparkplugs (F6DSR), Magnecore sparkplug wires (KV85), SeattleCircuit mpg adjuster circuit; Textar CeramicFusion brake pads; S/E/M auto trans selector with Euro software TCU; Royal Purple trans (MaxATF) & diff fluids; Koni FSD (F&R); Rogue RSMs; Strong Strut; Butt Strut; Bridgestone Fuzion ZR1 225/50/16 on Style 42's; hardtop; Footwell lighting; Interior lighting On/Off switchable; Euro intermittent wipers; Padded LeatherZ arm rests; Sisa Design Cabrio Wind Deflector;

Last edited by Monolith; 08-07-2013 at 01:32 AM.
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:29 AM   #10
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Definitely reroute your valve cover hose to the elbow. Some have used a catch-can in place of the PRV. You're just going to be forever coating your MAF with oil vapor with your current setup.
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Mods: DASC, NickG Stage II DME software, 30# injectors, RRFPR removed, DISA Simulator, Secondary Air Pump relocated, bypass cooling hose removed, Fogged airbox, Bosch silver sparkplugs (F6DSR), Magnecore sparkplug wires (KV85), SeattleCircuit mpg adjuster circuit; Textar CeramicFusion brake pads; S/E/M auto trans selector with Euro software TCU; Royal Purple trans (MaxATF) & diff fluids; Koni FSD (F&R); Rogue RSMs; Strong Strut; Butt Strut; Bridgestone Fuzion ZR1 225/50/16 on Style 42's; hardtop; Footwell lighting; Interior lighting On/Off switchable; Euro intermittent wipers; Padded LeatherZ arm rests; Sisa Design Cabrio Wind Deflector;
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:34 AM   #11
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Question is, where can I get the aluminium adaptor that mounts to the PRV, as I don't have one at all ath the moment?
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:42 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john318isau View Post
Question is, where can I get the aluminium adaptor that mounts to the PRV, as I don't have one at all ath the moment?
Jim Goodroe at Downing Atlanta. I'm sure he has a few extra. Just need to persevere with him (sometimes you'll get quick responses, other times not).

It's also not a complicated piece. If you know a machinist, it wouldn't take too much effort. If you're handy with tools, you can probably make one as well.

If you can't get one from Goodroe, let me know and I'll try to take some rough measurements for you.


More obvious connection photo from DASC notebook:

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Mods: DASC, NickG Stage II DME software, 30# injectors, RRFPR removed, DISA Simulator, Secondary Air Pump relocated, bypass cooling hose removed, Fogged airbox, Bosch silver sparkplugs (F6DSR), Magnecore sparkplug wires (KV85), SeattleCircuit mpg adjuster circuit; Textar CeramicFusion brake pads; S/E/M auto trans selector with Euro software TCU; Royal Purple trans (MaxATF) & diff fluids; Koni FSD (F&R); Rogue RSMs; Strong Strut; Butt Strut; Bridgestone Fuzion ZR1 225/50/16 on Style 42's; hardtop; Footwell lighting; Interior lighting On/Off switchable; Euro intermittent wipers; Padded LeatherZ arm rests; Sisa Design Cabrio Wind Deflector;

Last edited by Monolith; 08-07-2013 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monolith View Post
Jim Goodroe at Downing Atlanta. I'm sure he has a few extra. Just need to persevere with him (sometimes you'll get quick responses, other times not).

It's also not a complicated piece. If you know a machinist, it wouldn't take too much effort. If you're handy with tools, you can probably make one as well.

If you can't get one from Goodroe, let me know and I'll try to take some rough measurements for you.

More obvious connection photo from DASC notebook:
I contacted Jim and he replied promptly, but he doesn't have any of the adaptors left.

Is there a valve of a different vehicle that I could fit instead, maybe an inline valve that doesn't need any adaptors?
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Old 08-09-2013, 03:29 AM   #14
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Just mount a catch can and use a one way valve or a old style PCV valve from a Chevy early 1970's small block. So a 1972 Nova with a 283, 307 or 350 V-8. Chevelle or Corvette or any car with a PCV. You would connect the catch can right after the valve cover nipple then run the other end of the catch can to any area behind the TB. You can drill and tap a 3/8th barb and connect to that if needed. Very easy fix. No emissions in your state then just put a small filter on the valve cover barb and vent to atmosphere or to a catch can.

If you start to get oil leaks you will need to connect the valve cover breather barb to vacuum to control oil by having a vacuum in the crankcase...
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:38 PM   #15
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John Smith suggested installing a "R-pot valve on the injector octopus and that hooks to the port before the MAF sensor" so that boost wasn't lost there. I have a spare non return valve from the pipe that runs to the brake booster, would that be the right type of valve to install? If so, I guess the arrow should be pointing towards the injectors, right?

Still working on getting the factory PRV fitted.
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