 » Site Navigation | | | | » Recent Threads | | | My 318ti build 05-21-2024 04:48 PM 05-28-2024 06:42 PM 1 Comments, 2,095 Views | | | OMG!OMG! 05-28-2024 08:53 AM 05-28-2024 08:53 AM 0 Comments, 513 Views | | | |  |  |  | |  09-09-2007, 02:55 AM | | | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 1,587 |  Cooling System Rebuild. PICS!
Cooling System Overhaul 1996 318ti Auto / M44. Parts List • Radiator, 17111728905 - $128 (ebay - AC Imports) • OE Water Pump, 11510393338? - $79.82 (Tischer BMW) • 1 Gallon... |  |  | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by applefan  its very easy to remove the cabin filter cover. 3 screws that's it. Although you can do it with out removing the filter cover, it is extremely difficult and expect some bruises on your hand | Thanks for the reply: The filter cover being the part that's what about 2 foot long by a few inches? Assuming we are talking about the same part, I did see that and consider that removing it would give me a but more access. You say do it without taking it off, but the access looks ridiculously tight. I wouldn't even be able to get my hands there. So if that is quick to take off, how come someone quoted 5 hours as the time taken to do it? | | | | |
i did it with out taking the filter cover off, few years ago, that's because i didn't know how to take it off; thought it was not removable, it looked like a single unit to me. I was laughing at myself when I found out how easy it was to take the filter cover off four years later  5 hours may be including taking all the intake manifold off and coolant bleeding etc. | | | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by applefan i did it with out taking the filter cover off, few years ago, that's because i didn't know how to take it off; thought it was not removable, it looked like a single unit to me. I was laughing at myself when I found out how easy it was to take the filter cover off four years later 5 hours may be including taking all the intake manifold off and coolant bleeding etc. | Yet, BM quote 1.5 hours for this! That would be good if they weren't so expensive. The smaller garages may be cheaeper, but they'll take longer to do it! Thanks for the help. I'll take another look, and see what the deal is. Cheers | | | | |
honestly, save that £100 for something else.
start taking off the rubber panel ( is it called bushing?) from the outer edge, then you can see a heavy metal cover kinda thing with two screws one side and one on the other side. remove the screws take that metal cover out ,that's it your done. you can flip the plastic wiring harness cover to your liking and you have plenty of space to do your work. Make sure you bleed the coolant correctly once done with the work | | | | |
Quote: Originally Posted by applefan honestly, save that £100 for something else.
start taking off the rubber panel ( is it called bushing?) from the outer edge, then you can see a heavy metal cover kinda thing with two screws one side and one on the other side. remove the screws take that metal cover out ,that's it your done. you can flip the plastic wiring harness cover to your liking and you have plenty of space to do your work. Make sure you bleed the coolant correctly once done with the work | Well it would be £180 at BMW! Not that I would ever have stuff done there. The garage up the road would be £100 (probably) unless they screwed up again. They took practically 5 hours to install new rigid brake pipes. Not that I paid that - as they had quoted me a price. But they still probably managed to damage this pipe connection too. I'm going to take a look tomorrow, but it didn't look like I would ever have plenty of space to do the work! Even the AA guy (who was helpful) said it was hard to access. I don't suppose you could attach a picture of part the you say makes the whole job easier once it is removed? Would be appreciated! | | | | |
i will upload the picture, but you don't see the engine top cover there though i took the head out | | | | |
Take a look at the picture. you will get the idea
This is where I removed a metal covering and a rubber bushing | | | | |
This is what I removed to make room near the firewall area
Hope this helps | | | By adamb on 12-11-2012, 09:11 AM | unknown electrical plug
Here is a link to my original post. http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37564 I haven't had any luck in my searches. I figured I would post the link here since the majority of everyone is probably still subscribed to this thread..? Hopefully you guys can help me out! Thanks | | | | |
This is a great thread, but I need to ask if it is possible to replace just the back head connector if it is broken without all of the top end removal. My car is a 96 318i.
Can I remove the cabin filter cover to get to this? I have been able to get the two bolts off of the connector from the bottom side (quite a pain, but possible) , but do not know if it is possible to get the larger hose off of the connector with just the cabin filter cover removed. Smaller hose nipple snapped the other day on the way to work..
Thanks in advance | | | | |
I just finished this job on my daughter's Hellrot '98 Ti. What a flippin pain in the rear! Some of the challenges we encountered: - Dealing with the wiring that dropped down through the center of the lower intake manifold; three leads to the starter, one to the DISA valve, one to the oil filter housing, etc... What a pain in the...
 - Removing/replacing the plastic gooseneck on the back of the head,
- Installing the last coolant hose on the plastic gooseneck on the back of the head (dropped a nice Gearwrench ratchet with 7mm socket on it, and it didn't come out the bottom. Still in there, somewhere. )
- Sealing up the fuel lines on reassembly. A couple of o-rings dropped out somewhere along the line and didn't realize they were missing until we got a nice fuel leak when it was running.
- Somehow I ended up missing one hose; 64211394295 that goes between the heater core and the heater valve. It's on the list of things I ordered, and I paid for it, and thought I verified everything had been delivered, but it was nowhere to be found. Thankfully, the guy at the NAPA store was able to find another hose of a similar shape that fit in there perfectly. I think he said it was from a late model Chevy Impala. Go figure.
 - Ended up breaking the little plastic clip that holds the end of the throttle cable to the throttle lever. Our dealership is worthless; didn't have that part in stock, and strangely, their computer says that part isn't used on my car. RealOEM says the same. Weird.
- Found that the intake bellows between the air mass meter and the throttle body (#10 below) was cracked all over and leaking like a sieve. I didn't notice it when it first came off the car (son did some of the disassembly) or I would've ordered one. Had to patch the old one up for today because the new one won't be here until tomorrow. If you're doing this job, maybe save yourself the bother and order a new one with your hoses, especially if you don't know when it was last replaced. (by the way, does anybody know what that secondary throttle housing (#9) is for? Looks like some cars don't have it at all.)
- Had to transfer all the rubber bits from my old radiator over to the new. Wrongly assumed that they would be part of the new radiator... Nope.
- Had to transfer the coolant temp sensor from the old radiator to the new. I'm glad the brass plug was there, but sure wish I had noticed the absence of the sensor on the radiator before I put antifreeze in the system.
 | | | By adamb on 05-06-2013, 11:56 PM |
Those connections that go down through the middle of the lower intake are definitely a PAIN. I didnt have to much trouble hooking my starter cables back up as i found enough clearance from underneath the car. I did mis-label come of my connections which lead to me finding a wire short in the main loom. I had to disassemble everything again to lay a new wire. Davintosh - my boot (#7) was cracked as well leading me to run rich so a brand new boot fixed that right up. Also #9 looks like something to do with the cruise control, which my car does not have. | | | | |
Mine doesn't have cruise either (studying what it will take to retrofit) so that's not it. | | | By adamb on 05-07-2013, 12:04 AM |
I've looked into a retrofit as-well. Seems a bit in-depth. | | | | |
I replaced the pipe on the back of the m44 head started from up top, then realized I could reach it and do the job from under the car best
Was looking for a parts list to change the middle pipe next | | | | |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Tutorial: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | |
 Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
| | |
|
Linear Mode
