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Old 07-19-2009, 03:38 PM   #1
1996 328ti
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Default Throttle cable?

I'm going to replace my throttle cable and noticed the

318ti uses 35411162482
and a 328i uses 35411163228

My current cable seems to be a bit long, is that because the original ti cable was uses? It is actually coiled in a circle.

I'm assuming the 328i cable will fit correctly.

Has anyone replaced their cable on a swap?
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Old 07-19-2009, 03:51 PM   #2
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Use the cable to match the motor you have.

My ti cable would not even come close to fitting on my M50 motor (325i). The m50 throttle cable fits fine.
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Old 07-19-2009, 04:06 PM   #3
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Thanks.
My present cable comes through the firewall, excess is under the heater bypass valve. So that is normal?

I'll order parts today.
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Old 07-19-2009, 04:27 PM   #4
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Shouldn't have too much excess in the cable.

I don't know how much you get up to Charlotte, but if you ever get a chance get up to Hendrick BMW, Ryan Lisy at the parts counter is the man. Always helps me out.
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Old 07-19-2009, 05:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenocide View Post
Shouldn't have too much excess in the cable.

I don't know how much you get up to Charlotte, but if you ever get a chance get up to Hendrick BMW, Ryan Lisy at the parts counter is the man. Always helps me out.
Last time in Charlotte was to fix a smashed windshield while I was on the way to VIR.

I just placed my order with Tischer.
I ordered everything including the circlips in case they go flying.
I'd rather have more parts than I need than crawling on my garage floor looking for a 38 cent part.
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Old 07-19-2009, 06:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996 328ti View Post
I'm going to replace my throttle cable and noticed the

318ti uses 35411162482
and a 328i uses 35411163228

My current cable seems to be a bit long, is that because the original ti cable was uses? It is actually coiled in a circle.

I'm assuming the 328i cable will fit correctly.

Has anyone replaced their cable on a swap?
Hey Steven, I've been meaning to swap my cable out. I'll do it today and snap some pictures for you.
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Old 07-19-2009, 07:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljess76 View Post
Hey Steven, I've been meaning to swap my cable out. I'll do it today and snap some pictures for you.
Everything looks straight forward except do I need to remove the knee bolster?

Edit: You probably don't need these documents if posted.
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showpost....5&postcount=18
But just in case.
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Last edited by 1996 328ti; 07-19-2009 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 07-19-2009, 07:06 PM   #8
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only need to remove the knee bolster if you can't fit under there to see whats goin on
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Old 07-19-2009, 07:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996 328ti View Post
Everything looks straight forward except do I need to remove the knee bolster?

Edit: You probably don't need these documents if posted.
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showpost....5&postcount=18
But just in case.
Thanks Steven, I glanced through those last night. I'm getting ready to head out to the garage right now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenocide View Post
only need to remove the knee bolster if you can't fit under there to see whats goin on
Hehehe, well Jeff, Steven and I are both pretty big guys, lol. @ 5'11/250, I have a difficult time fitting my arms in tight spaces
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Old 07-19-2009, 07:17 PM   #10
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Can I get a that's what she said?
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:11 AM   #11
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Alright Steven, sorry for the delay. I pulled the cable from my M3 today. Removing the cluster on the M3 did absolutely nothing for access due to the HVAC ducts and insulation in the way. The dash is put together rather differently than the Ti. I removed the driver's seat so I can lay flat on my back and look up at the firewal from under the dash. I had to remove the entire lower dash section on the M3 because it has an underpanel connected to it. I also removed the padded knee buster, just a few 10mm bolts and it came right off.

Once that was removed, I was able to get a visual on the cable, but there was more insulation covering up where it went through the firewall. I cut some of the insulation from around the cable to see what I was working with. All in all, removal was pretty simple.

A small rubber grommet holds the cable end in the accelerator pedal linkage. That pulled out really easy with almost no force at all.

Then there's a plastic clip that holds the cable in the firewall. I used a flat head screwdriver to push in the tabs on the clip. Once you push one tab in, the clip will tilt in through the firewall. Then you take the screwdriver and push the other tab inand the throttle cable falls into the engine comaprtment.

Installation will be much easier than removal, simply snap the plastic clip into the firewall from the engine compartment, then go under the dash and push the rubber grommet into the pedal linkage. Definitely an easy enough job to DIY. Here's a few pics to help you out:

Rubber grommet disconnected from the pedal linkage



Plastic clip attached to the firewall(the steering column is kinda in the way, but you can work around it)


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Old 07-20-2009, 03:13 AM   #12
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And here's a few more pics of what the cable looks like removed:


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Old 07-20-2009, 03:21 AM   #13
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Thanks.
I took another look at the cable today.
At idle I can pull the cable out almost 1/4".
The nut is as tight as it can go.
With the throttle all the way down I can push the butterfly open a little more with my finger.
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:23 AM   #14
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sounds like this will fix your problem then
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Old 07-20-2009, 05:02 AM   #15
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Chimed in late, but you need a 6 cylinder cable, the 4 isnt the right length by any means. There is a slight slack in the cable that kind of loops up then down into the firewall and connects to the pedal.
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